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CLANDESTINE CHEMIST'S NOTEBOOK |
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(Manual for Drug Manufacture) |
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Written By: Zero .: |
| OCT. 26, 2003 /;) |
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/ o \ | | :%: :~: : : :#: | | :~:~8~o~: |
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THE CLANDESTINE CHEMIST'S NOTEBOOK: Ver. 1
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Introduction
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Welcome to the very first version of The Clandestine Chemist's Notebook. Originally
I had the idea of making this information into a website. But after reading articles about
certain people being arrested for information they had posted on their websites (in America
by the way), I decided a text file would be better suited for information such as what you
are about to read. My main reason for choosing to put this information in a text file is
because I am pretty much allowed to say whatever I want. A website draws too much unwanted
attention from very unrespectable American Bureaus.
Let me cut to the chase. Basicly, this is a handbook that will explain to you
exactly how to manufacture illegal drugs. I must state here that this manual is not a ripoff
of "The Anarchist Cookbook." The methods explained within this text file are proven syntheses
for manufacturing illegal drugs. You will not find any "Make speed from Vicks Nasal
Inhalers", or "Make real LSD from Morning Glory Seeds" in this text file.
If you are under the age of 18, I highly suggest that you not read any further. I
suggest that you get rid of this file, and act like you never saw it. There is a simple
reason why: If you are under 18, and your parents find this "Drug Lab Notebook" hiding under
your bed, you will be in serious trouble for sure. Also, you just add to the anti-drug war.
Every time a parent finds this sort of information under a minor's bed, something happens.
Which is always one point against people such as myself.
This manual may shock you. You will discover exactly how simple it is to make drugs
in your own kitchen. There are some things that I have not added to this text file, like
how to make LSD for example. I did not put any LSD Synthesis in this manual because the
manufacture of LSD normally requires a Laboratory that has had a few thousand dollars dumped
into it. LSD is not a very practical drug for a normal Joe like yourself to manufacture,
since it requires college level chemistry schooling. I have added to this text file as many
drugs as I thought you might enjoy. If I am missing a drug that you would like to see, feel
free to drop me an E-Mail with your request: zerotextspy@yahoo.com
You will also find a few sections in here that are focused towards extractions,
and Growing. I am not putting anything in this text file that tell you how to grow Marijuana,
just how to extract the good stuff. However, I am putting in an area on growing Mushrooms.
Mainly though, this text file is focused towards manufacturing, not growing.
I must stress to you that you do not carry out the information contained within
this text file. As with most 'Underground' text files, this is for informational, and
entertainment purposes only. It is somewhat funny, but I have never manufactured an illegal
drug. However, chemistry is a subject of mine that I love, I also do Drugs. Since these two
mental states are combined (Love of Chemistry, and Love of Drugs), I tend to research drug
manufacture alot. Just remember that if you were to actually carry out any of the information
contained in this text file, that it is quite possible you will be busted by the Government,
and thrown in Prison for and estimated 10 years for Manufacturing a Controlled Substance.
Not a very fun situation at all, I'm sure.
You should be expecting a few other text file's coming out sometime soon related
to similar subjects. So keep an eye out, and drop me an E-Mail if you have ANY suggestions.
Any information you have, I will probably find a use for. I will include whatever decent
information you have in any text file I produce.
You may distribute this document freely to whomever you would like to. Under a few
conditions of course. #1 You will not omit my name from this file. #2 You will not edit
any of the text. However, if you decide to copy this file onto a webpage, and compile it into
an HTML, you may delete the ASCII art for convenience. You may also print this file out onto
Paper, and distribute it among your friends. In all fairness, make them pay you $2 for the
paper.
So, enjoy your reading. This is an education process. Knowledge that you 'should not
be permitted to know.' You're now fighting the system by gaining this knowledge. The system
doesn't want you to have this information floating around in your brain, because it gives you
power. Keep up the good fight.
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THE CLANDESTINE CHEMIST'S NOTEBOOK: Ver. 1
CONTENTS:
1: Methamphetamine ~"~"~"~"~"~ Crystal Meth, Speed
Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #1
Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #2
RXN Methamphetamine #3
RXN Methamphetamine #4
Getting Red Phosphorus from Matchbooks
2: Methcathinone ~"~"~"~"~"~ Cat, Jeff
Methcathinone Manufacture #1
Methcathinone Manufacture #2
3: GHB ~"~"~"~"~"~ Liquid E, Date Rape Drug
GHB Manufacture #1
GHB Manufacture #2
4: MDMA ~"~"~"~"~"~ Ecstasy, X
MDMA Manufacture #1
5: Phencyclidine ~"~"~"~"~"~ PCP, Angel Dust
Phencyclidine Manufacture #1
6: Cocaine ~"~"~"~"~"~ Coke, Blow
Cocaine Manufacture
7: Opiates ~"~"~"~"~"~ Heroin, Codeine
Extracting Codeine from Codeine Pills
Converting Codeine into Morphine, then into Heroin
Synthetic Heroin Synthesis (fentanyl)
Codeinone from Thebaine
Conversion of Thebaine to Codeine
Conversion of Oxycodone to Oxymorphone
8: Marijuana ~"~"~"~"~"~ Weed, Bud
Extracting Hash Oil using Butane
Extracting Hashish
9: Psilocybin ~"~"~"~"~"~ Shrooms, Caps
Growing Psilocybin Mushrooms
10: Salvia Divinorum ~"~"~"~"~"~ Dream Herb, Salvia
Producing Salvia Extract
11: DMT & 5-MeO-DMT ~"~"~"~"~"~ Toad Venom
Milking 5-MeO-DMT from Toads
Extracting DMT from Plants
DMT & DET Synthesis
12: Ketamine ~"~"~"~"~"~ Special K
Ketamine Manufacture from Scratch #1
Ketamine Synthesis #2
13: Dextromethorphan ~"~"~"~"~"~ DXM, Red Devil's
DXM Coricidin Extraction
Simplified Acid/Base Extraction of DXM
Converting DXM into DXO
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METHAMPHETAMINE
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First chapter of the book; How to Make Methamphetamine. Otherwise known as Crystal Meth,
Speed, Crank, etc. Remember that Methamphetamine is a dirty drug, it is quite literally made
out of Poisons.
There are two different types of Methods described here. #1 is the RXN (cooking dope using
Red Phosphorus, etc), and the Birch Reduction (cooking dope with Anhydrous Ammonia). These
methods do work they will produce plenty of Crystal Meth for you, and your friends.
Here are the Recipes:
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Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #1
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INGREDIENTS:
1) 750 pills containing 60mg psuedoephedrine (preferably Sudafed 24 hr, each pill has 240 mg
in it, so you would only have to use about 190 pills instead). Warning: do not try to buy
more than 3 boxes of these anywhere, shop around, and don't buy any pills with acetaminophen
in it (its for headaches), it will destroy your batch.
2) 5 lithium batteries (these are photo batteries, E2 blue package)
3) 2 cans of Coleman's, or generic brand lantern fuel.
4) One bottle of heavy duty drain cleaner (go to a hardware store, find the bottle with the
skull and cross bones on it).
5) One container of UN-iodized salt
6) This is the tricky part, have to have some kind of to an Anhydrous Ammonia tank, think
co-ops or farm fields (your going to have to do this undercover).
SUPPLIES
1) 5 or 6 regular size mason jars.
2) 1 20oz pop bottle, completely dry with lid
3) Tubing, thin enough to fit into an airtight hole on the pop bottle lid.
4) Coffee filters
5) 3 coolers, 1 big, 1 medium, 1 small
6) A Safe place to do it
7) Hose from a car wash vacuum. You don't want the nozzle, just about 8 feet of the hose.
9) About $10 worth of dry ice
PREPERATION:
- CRUSH UP ALL YOUR PILLS (coffee grinder, blender), AND PUT THEM IN A PLASTIC BAGGIE
OR
WHATEVER.
-STRIP THE BATTERIES: Take needle nose pliers, and peel all the skin off the batteries, and
in the very center there will be a silver strip. This is the lithium. You will know it
because it will start to get warm once it touches air. Immediately throw these into your
small cooler that has a good amount of Coleman's lantern fluid sitting in it. This fluid
will chill these lithium strips out and keep you safe. (REMEMBER THIS SMELLS, NOT TERRIBLE,
BUT KEEP IT IN MIND)
-GET READY: This is the scary part. You are going to have to go out and steal a small amount
of anhydrous ammonia from some unknowing farmer or a Co-op. All you need to take with you is
your baggie with the crushed pills, your cooler with the lithium strips, and the hose. This
is how you will do this step.
INSTRUCTIONS
-Have a trusted friend drive you to a safe spot to get dropped off near the tank, on some
dirt road where you can get out and not be detected. Have him stop, you jump out, be careful
for what you are carrying and run to a place you can hide for a few seconds.
-Asses the situation, get to a point where you can scope out the tank from a safe, yet clear
distance. Get a feeling for the area and make sure it is clear. Now swallow your balls and
creep up to the tank.
-Slide one end of the hose over the nozzle of the tank, and put the other end into the
cooler with the lithium strips. Turn the pressure of the tank on and off quickly. Be careful
not to let too much come out at a time. Just turn it on for about 5 seconds, then turn it off
look around. Repeat about 6-7 times.
Now for all you curious georges, the reason you do this is because this is the only thing
(besides FREEON R-12, which you could use as well) that is cold enough to melt the lithium.
Note: be CAREFUL, this shit can fuck up your skin and it is hard to be around this because
its hard to breathe, but this is one of the risks you must take if you choose to do this.
-Once you have completed this, add your pill powder to the mix, this is called the MUD. Stir
this up quickly get it mixed together well. Have your buddy pick you up. Time it so your total
drop
off time is no longer than 10-15 minutes.
-Go back to your safe spot. Add a little more lantern fluid to the mix. Don't be suprised if
your little cooler is hissing and making funny noises, this is normal. The chemicals are
reacting with each other. Let this sit for a little bit (20 minutes). The liquid in this is
called the 'Rinse' for further reference to it. Put your dry ice in the big cooler, and place
the small one into it (this takes care of the smell, not crucial, but it helps).
-Prepare the acid pump. Take your 20oz bottle; make sure it is COMPLETELY dry. Drill a hole in
the lid to fit your tubing through. Put tubing in so there is more coming out of the top, and
put hot glue or something around the hole so that it is airtight. Pour a generous amount of
the salt into the bottle and add the smallest bit of the drain cleaner. Put the lid on, and
shake this up. It should be reacting, forming a cloud inside the bottle. Let this sit for a
minute while you prepare the first Mason jar.
-Take one of the mason jars. Make sure that this is also COMPLETELY dry. Put a paper plate
folded up like a funnel, with the smallest possible hole onto the mason jar, and pour some of
your "rinse" into the funnel and let it go into the jar. This should take about 4 minutes
because your funnel is very tight, the liquid that remains in the jar will be clear.
- Now you have your little makeshift pop bottle/acid pump. Put the little hose coming out
of it into the Mason jar, not into the actual liquid. The gas should be slowly coming out of
the tube. If it's not, give your bottle a couple of light squeezes. The gas will stay in the
Mason jar, and go into the liquid by itself, making it cloudy.
-Now you will see something dropping from the liquid to the bottom of your jar, and a film
sticking to the side of it. This is your methamphetamine.
-Have another clean mason jar ready with a coffee filter on top of it securely. Pour the
contents of your first jar into this one. What stays on the filter is the crank. Either scrape
it off, or leave it on and let it dry under a light or whatever. There you have it. Exciting,
huh?
-Repeat until you have nothing left. If every thing went right you will have yielded 25-30
grams of methamphetamine
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Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #2
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MATERIALS:
1 2 Liter Bottle (with cap)
1 1 Liter Bottle (get 2 caps for it)
1 20 oz. Bottle (with cap)
1 Quart Jar
2 ft. 1/4in. diameter rubber/plastic hose (aquarium hose works good)
Coffee Filters
1 Funnel
1 Tubing Cutter
2 Plyers
1 Roll of Ductape or Electrical Tape
1 Blender or Food Processor
INGREDIENTS:
200 60mg Pseudophedrine HCL pills (Actifed, Sudafed, Suphedrine, etc.)
1 1/2 cups Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer (33-0-0)
3 cans starting fluid
3 AA Energizer Lithuim Batteries
1 bottle Red Devil brand Lye
2 caps of water (use the top off the 2 liter)
1 box Iodized Salt
1 bottle Liquid Fire brand drain opener
PROCEDURE:
1) Rinse and dry out all of your bottles. Be sure to get ALL of the moisture out. Don't go
any further until they are completely dry.
2) Put your pills into the blender or food processor and grind them into powder. Mix them in
with the 1 1/2 cups of Ammoniun Nitrate fertilizer. Use the funnel to pour the mixture into
the 2 liter bottle.
3) Hold your cans of starting fluid upside-down and hold the button until all of the air is
out. Once the air is out, use a screwdriver (I use a bottle opener.) to poke a hole in the
bottom of the cans. Using the funnel again, pour the liquid (ethyl ether) out of the cans
into the 2 Liter with the Ammonium Nitrate/pills mixture.
4) Now you have to take the Lithium strips out of the batteries (This is why I recommend
being experienced.). Tighten the tubing cutter onto the center of the battery and spin it
around until the metal casing is cut. Be careful not to cut into the guts of the battery. If
you mess up the battery may become extremely hot and catch fire. Next take your 2 plyers and
grab each end of the battery. Pull each side of the casing off. Once the insides are out of
the casing, place them in an air tight container (Tupperware, Rubbermaid, etc.). They can be
stored for up to 3 hours. The lithium will become very volatile if exposed to moisture in the
air or water. Be careful!
5) Unroll the guts of the first battery and remove the Lithium strip. There are two strips
in a Lithium battery, so be sure not to get the wrong one. You do not want the one that has
shiny metal around the edges. Tear the Lithium strip into tiny pieces and place them in the
2 Liter. Do the same with the other two batteries.
6) Take the cap off your bottle of Lye and fill its cap with it. Pour this into the 2 Liter
as well. Use the funnel!
7) Take the top of the 2 Liter and fill it with water. Pour the water into the 2 Liter.
Repeat once. You should see little bubble floating to the top of the liquid in the bottle.
Place the cap on the bottle and swish it around a little (do not shake!).
8) Now your dope is cooking (I call it "rolling"). About every 5 minutes loosen the cap a
little to release the pressure and to make it "roll" a little harder. After about 10 seconds
re-tighten the cap. Don't breathe too deeply, because gaseous ammonia is released.
9) You have to keep adding Lye or your dope will stop "rolling". About every 20 minutes add
about 1 cap (use the cap off the lye bottle!) of Lye. Tighten the top tight on the 2 Liter
and shake the bottle vigorously for about 8 seconds. Loosen the top, releasing the pressure,
and the dope will start "rolling" perfectly. Repeat every 20 minutes. You do not want to use
more than 2/3 bottle of Lye, so you may have to adjust the amount you add or how often you
add it to make it go for 2 hours.
10) After 2 hours, your dope is through "rolling". Get the funnel and place it in the 1
Liter bottle. Put two coffee filters in the funnel and pour the liquid from the 2 Liter
through them into the 1 liter bottle. Pour a little at a time to make sure you don't let any
get outside the filters. Once the 1 liter is filled, tighten the top on it all the way.
It'll ruin your dope if you let dirt or moisture get into it.
11) Take the 2nd top to the 1 liter and the top to the 20 oz. and cut holes in them barely
big enough to fit the plastic/rubber hose into. Put each end of the hose into each top and
make them air tight using ductape or electrical tape. Make sure you use a clean hose!
12) Remove the cap from the 1 liter bottle and screw on the one with the hose attached to
it. Pour iodized salt into your 20 oz. until it is filled about 1/2 inch from the bottom.
Take the cap from your 2 liter or another cap the same size and fill it with Liquid Fire.
Pour the Liquid Fire onto the salt and tightly screw the top attached to the other end of
the hose onto the 20 oz. Shake the 20 oz. left-to-right for about 4 seconds. Pump (squeeze
and release) it once and sit it down. Smoke will begin the fill the 1 liter. As the smoke
begins to go into the liquid, you will see the dope "fall". It looks snow. When the smoke
stops, take the top off the 1 liter and tie a knot in the hose. Put the other top back on
the 1 liter and shake it vigorously for 30 seconds. Let the crystal settle. Put the funnel
over the jar with 2 new coffee filters it it and pour the liquid through them. A little bit
of meth gets caught in the filters, but the rest stays in the bottle. Cut the top half of
the bottle off and use a hair dryer to dry the crystal. Snort it or smoke it and get high as
a bat.
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RXN METHAMPHETAMINE #3
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This reaction is brought about the same as every other push/pull RXN. You have to know how
to extract psuedoephedrine(E) and clean it, you have to know how to extract the red
phosphorus(RP) off matchbooks (or where ever you get it from), and how to properly clean
the red phosphorus. you must also know how to clean up your iodine(I2) to a proper grade.
I am not going to go into how to do these procedures as they are covered in seperate pages.
with this easy to follow synth, I will start at mixing the reactants and where to go from
there.
What you will need:
1.Flask with nipple connection
2.Stopper (that fits the flask)
3.Electric Burner
4.Candy Thermometer
5.1and 1/2ft. of plastic tubing to fit on the nipple of your flask
6.Separatory Funnel
7.Chemical Resistant latex gloves
8.Visionware Glass Bowl or pot.
9.Regular cooking pot
10.Distilled H2O
11.RedDevil Lye
12.Hydrocloric acid (Muriatic Acid)
13.Duct Tape
14.Litmus Paper
15.Non-Polar Solvent (Colemans Fuel, Toluene...)
Ok here is how it goes. Use the 1 part E, to 1.2 parts I2, to .8 parts RP ratio for
reactions under 1oz. So for example you would use 10g of E, 12g of I2, and 8g of RP. First
take the RP and the E and mix well in a plastic baggie. Take this and pour it into your
flask, covering the bottom of it. Next pour in your I2 and close with a solid rubber
stopper. Duct tape this on so it dont pop off during the reaction. you should all ready
have your foot and a half of plastic tubing secured onto the nipple of the flask, and a
pair of your chemical resistant gloves on. After you get the 3 goodies mixed in the bottom
of the flask you will want to hold the end of the tubing closed with your thumb.(gloves on!)
Sit back and watch it start to react. Sometimes it will react right away and sometimes not.
Just watch and see. It will start turning to a muddy texture, and then to a liquid. Every
once and a while release pressure in the flask by moving your thumb. now it will not always
turn liquid before the cook. not totally liquid anyway. Just sit back releasing pressure
when it gets great and wait for the reaction to really slow down.
Alright, everything going good so far? Not too hard heh? Now you will want to cook the
reaction to get it going again. Before you start all of this put your regular cooking
pot on your electric burner and find out where the dial is at 150F. So turn on your burner
and set it at 150F. Put your cooking pot with a little water or vegetable oil in the bottom
on the burner, and put your flask in that. after a few minutes this bitch will really get
cookin. It will start bubbling and the mixture will expand. All in all it is going to start
to get a little crazy. Every few minutes pick up the flask and shake and stir it up a little.
And usually release a little pressure every shake or every other shake. You will be able to
feel the pressure building up on your thumb. When it gets bad release a little
Just keep this going for while. You will want to slowly turn up the heat to about 180F over
a 20 minute period. The push part of the reaction will keep going for about 20 minutes to 45
minutes. It usually lasted for about half an hour in my dreams. You will know when to stop
cooking when the push stops. (when no more gas is being pushed out of the flask. When this
has occured be sure to keep your thunb over the tubing and take the flask out of the pot and
just set it on the counter. From this point on, you are going to keep your thumb tightly over
the tubing until the flask has cooled down. During the cooling you want to pick up the flask
with your other hand and stir and shake the ingredients in the flask every few minutes. It
will probaly take about 20 minutes (if that) for the flask to cool down. You want it to be
cool enough to hold in your hand with out burning yourself. You will feel the pull start as
your vessel cools down. it will be trying to suck air back into the flask now. You are aloud
a very little bit of air into the flask but not much at all. Remember to keep stirring and
shaking the flask during the cooling.
When the flask has cooled down to a suitable state, (keeping your thumb over the tubing
still) stick your thumb and the end of the tubing into a bowl of distilled H20 and release.
The vacuum in the flask will pull water into the flask. Dont let to much into the flask just
a little. now pull the tubing out of the water and let it suck air into the tubing. Thats it.
thats the reaction. not to hard hey? Now lets clean up that chilli. All ready smelling
success? wait and see.
Shake up the chilli/H20 in the flask, take off the duct tape and the stopper, and pour
directly into the clean visionware bowl. now pour a little more distilled water into empty
flask (just a little) and shake up real good. this is just to get out the rest of what ever
is left in the flask. put the bowl on the burner and turn on high. bring to a boil while
stirring with a clean plastic spoon. This will get the some chilli that is stuck on the RP
off of it. turn of burner and let sit for a minute or two. be sure to save all your RP so
you can wash it and reuse it later.
While this is cooling off a little, grab your funnel and put in 3 cofee filters and stuff
a cotton ball in the tip of the funnel. put this over a clean glass jar. now pour everything
that is in the visionware bowl into the funnel. it will take a while to filter because of
the RP. once all the meth water is filtered through, into the glass jar, pour it back through
the same filters (with the RP in it) again. you will want to do this at least 4 times. just
keep pouring it through the same filter/cottonballs. now it should have a yellowish collor,
but not foggy at all. it should be very clear.
Pour this into your separatory funnel, and add just a little ice. now pour in a little
colemans fuel (or toluene). add a little less than the amount of water/meth you have in
there. now slowly add a little lye to the sep. funnel, and shake well. drop a small drip
onto your litmus paper to test the Ph. (you will be testing the water/meth layer, NOT the
colemans fuel layer) you want the Ph to be 12. (yellow) if it is not a Ph of 12 then add a
little more lye and shake the hell out of it and test again. keep doing this till it test
out at 12. After it test at 12 drop in a tablespoon of table salt, and shake well. Now we
are going to seperate the layers in the funnel. We want to keep the NP Solvent (Colemans),
not the water/lye layer.
Put the water layer in a jar and set aside. you can test for meth later. Keep the colemans
fuel/meth in the seperatory funnel. microwave a big glass of new distilled H2O till it is
hot. pour in one third the amount of water (compared to the colemans) and shake well. drain
the water out. repeat this 4 times. you are washing the NP Solvent. now once again, add one
third the amount of water to the sep. funnel and drop in a few drops of Hcl. (Muriatic Acid
Shake for a few minutes. then test the ph of the ph of the water layer. you want it to test
at 7.2 or at least close to that. if it doesnt, add a few more drops of Hcl and shake the
hell out of it again and test again. after it is the proper ph, drain the water layer into
your visionware bowl and put it on the burner and boil down. you can finish with a hairdryer
if you want. now go back to your colemans fuel in the seperatory funnel and add a little
more distilled water. we are going to do a second pull on the non-polar solvent. add a few
more drops of Hcl and shake it up again. test the ph again. looking for 7.2 again. once you
reach 7.2 again drain your meth/water into your clean visionware bowl (you should have
already scraped out the crystals from the last pull that you all ready evaporated. now
evaporate again. remember that if your not in a hurry, evaporating it with a hair dryer
will increase yeilds. Some chefs even do a third pull.
Thats it. you now have clean and pure crystal meth.
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RXN METHAMPHETAMINE #4
----------------------
List of chemicals and materials:

Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from hardware stores, in the
pool section
NaOH - also called lye
Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid,
usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether content", such
as Prestone Ephedrine The cottons in todays vicks nasle inhalers dont contain efed or pfed
(ephedrin or psuedoephedrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed,
pure ephedrin can be extracted out of it's plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at
most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Most people
perfer to work with pfed from pills rather then ephed from the plant. The important thing is
that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will fuck up the molar ratio leaving
you with over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit. Or contaminats will jell durring baseifying
and gak up your product which will then be very hard to clean. So you want to find a pill
that is nearly pure pfed hcl, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the lable on
your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are things
like binders and flavors. These you dont want and will remove when cleaning your pills. but
certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove then others. You dont want pills with a
red coating, you dont want pills with alot of cellose in them and you dont want pills with
much wax. you also dont want pills that contain povidone. As a rule, if you have a two pills
that contain the same amount of pfed hcl then take the smaller sized pill because it
obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are usualy harder
to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel up durring the a/b stage. Also
only buy pills that have pfed hcl as the only active ingredient. You first have to make
ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth by itself):If you are selling it...I would just
make ephedrine and say it's meth.
Distilled water - it's really cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stuff from the
tap. Do things right.
List of equipment:
A glass eyedropper
Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not important)one should be marked
at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ether). One
should be clear (and it can't be the marked one).
A Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested)
A glass quart jar
Sharp scissors
Clean rubber gloves
Coffee filters
A measuring cup
Measuring spoons
Preparing Ethyl Ether:
WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethyl ether near
flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anaesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse
if you inhale too much.
Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full. Then
fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for
a minute or two, and tap the side to try and separate the clear upper layer. Then, draw off
the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer.
Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether.
Put the cap on it, and put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let it
stand.
Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite noticeable.
Ephedrine & or P-Ephedrine:
5. Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and agitate. Do this
carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is
explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat this step until the mixture
remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the HCl in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base
(l-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do we do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble
impurities. For 3 oz. bottles, this should take only 3 repetitions or so.
6. Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the bottle, and
agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the free-base
to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the
ether (it -is- soluble in ether).
7. Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the side of
the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. This is why this bottle should be clear.
8. Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the
middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer into a third bottle.
9. Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way and about 5 drops of muriatic
acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles, remove the top layer and
throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCl again, forming a water soluble
salt. This time, we're getting rid of ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all
the ether before going to step 11!
10. If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.
11. Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this on the stove or
nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing), but I have found that if you leave it
on top of a hot-water heater (like the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about
2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCl.
If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. If it starts "popping", that
means you have too little liquid left to microwave. You can put it under a bright (100W)
lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven heating, anyway.
First Batch: 120mg ephedrine HClEstimated: 300mg (100% of theoretical, disregarding HCl)
Now, Making Methamphetamine out of ephedrine by reducing it with Hydroiodic Acid and Red
Phosphorus.
Items needed:
Alot of matchbooks (the kind with the striking pad)
Coffee filters (or filter paper)
Something that measures ml and grams
A flask (a small pot with a lid can be used)
iodine
Hydroiodic Acid (I will tell you how to make this)
Red Phosphorus (I will tell you how to make this)
Lye
*Optional (toluene and HCI gas)
Making Red Phosphorus:
The striking pad on books of matches is about 50% red phosphorus. The determined experimenter
could obtain a pile of red phosphorus by scraping off the striking pads of matchbooks with a
sharp knife. A typical composition of the striking pad is about 50% red phosphorus, along with
about 30% antimony sulfide, and lesser amounts of glue, iron oxide, MnO2, and glass powder.
I don't think these contaminants will seriously interfere with the reaction. Naturally, it is
a tedious process to get large amounts of red phosphorus by scraping the striking pads off
matchbooks, but who cares?
Making Hydroiodic Acid:
This is made by mixing iodine and red phosphorus. When making hydroiodic acid from iodine
and red phosphorus, the acid is prepared first, and allowed to come to complete reaction for
20 minutes before adding the ephedrine to it. The way around the roadblock here is to just
boil off some more of the water from the ephedrine extract, and make the acid mixture in fresh
pure water. Since the production of HI from iodine and red phosphorus gives off a good deal
of heat, it is wise to chill the mixture in ice, and slowly add the iodine crystals to the
red phosphorus-water mixture.
Now, Making Methamphetamine:
To do the reaction, a 1000 ml round bottom flask is filled with 150 grams of ephedrine. Also
added to the flask are 40 grams of red phosphorus and 340 ml of 47% hydroiodic acid. This
same acid and red phosphorus mixture can be prepared from adding 150 grams of iodine crystals
to 150 grams of red phosphorus in 300 ml of water. This should produce the strong hydroiodic
acid solution needed. Exactly how strong the acid needs to be, I can't say . With the
ingredients mixed together in the flask, a condenser is attached to the flask, and the
mixture is boiled for one day. This length of time is needed for best yields and highest
octane numbers on the product. While it is cooking, the mixture is quite red and messy
looking from the red phosphorus floating around in it.When one day of boiling under reflux
is up, the flask is allowed to cool, then it is diluted with an equal volume of water. Next,
the red phosphorus is filtered out. A series of doubled up coffee filters will work to get
out all the red phosphorus, but real filter paper is better. The filtered solution should
look a golden color. A red color may indicate that all the red phosphorus is not yet out. If
so, it is filtered again. The filtered-out phosphorus can be saved for use in the next batch.
If filtering does not remove the red color, there may be iodine floating around the solution.
It can be removed by adding a few dashes of sodium bisulfate or sodium thiosulfate.The next
step in processing the batch is to neutralize the acid. A strong lye solution is mixed up and
added to the batch while shaking until the batch is strongly basic. This brings the meth out
as liquid free base floating on top of the water. The strongly basic solution is shaken
vigorously to ensure that all the meth has been converted to the free base. You now can sell
or use the free base for injection use or with free base meth now obtained, the next step you
can do is to form the crystalline hydrochloride salt of meth. To do this, a few hundred mls
of toluene is added to the batch, and the meth free base extracted out as usual. If the
chemist's cooking has been careful, the color of the toluene extract will be clear to pale
yellow. If this is the case, the product is sufficiently pure to make nice white crystals
just by bubbling dry HCl gas through the toluene extract. If the toluene extract is darker
colored, a distillation is called for to get pure meth free base. The yield of pure
methamphetamine hydrochloride should be from 100 to 110 grams
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Getting Red Phosphorus From Matchbooks
--------------------------------------
Obtaining Red Phosphorus
Materials:
5 Gallon Bucket Drill (1/2" chuck) Mud/Paint/Concrete Mixer Coffee Filters Strainer
(big enough to fit over pot and bucket opening) 2 gallon Cooking Pot Tin Snips or Scissors
200 Matchbook Boxes 2 Gallons Acetone Sulfuric Acid Hydrochloric Acid Water Iodine
Extracting Red Phosphorus from Matchbooks:
1. Rip off matchbook covers. Line up as many matchbook covers as you can cut through with
tin snips or good, sharp scissors. Cut out and save all the striking strips.
2. Drill 3/4" hole in the lid of the 5 gallon bucket. Put the mud mixer through 3/4" hole
in lid and into the drill.
3. Dump the 200 matchbook boxes worth of striking strips (10,000 striking strips) into the
5-gallon bucket. Pour 1.5 gallons of acetone into the bucket. Cover bucket by inserting mud
mixer then snapping on the lid.
4. Mix contents for about 5 minutes. Check to see if strips are mostly white on account of
the phosphorous/glue being washed off. If not then continue mixing.
5. Take off the lid and pull out mixer. Put the strainer on the cooking pot and pour all
the acetone in. Pull out all strips from strainer and bucket and place on clean table or
in a bowl. The strips will be covered in residual red phosphorus, so rinse them by placing
the strainer on bucket and throwing a handful of strips in it. Then slowly pour some of the
acetone in the cooking pot, through the strainer until strips are clean. Empty strainer into
garbage. Continue until all strips are rinsed.
6. Pour all the acetone/RP into the cooking pot. Let the RP settle for about 15 minutes.
Slowly pour off the acetone. Keep pouring as long as the acetone is pretty clear. The last
bit of acetone will be reddish colored. Filter this through a coffee filter in the strainer.
Scrape the mushy RP back into the pot or dry the filters, roll and ball them up well, then
unfold. All the RP will fall right out in a dust.
Cleaning Matchbook Red Phosphorus:
Sulfuric/hydrochloric acid wash: (This can be done as 2 different washes) With mushy RP in
cooking pot, pour enough 1:1 water/sulfuric to cover the glob. (It's optional now to add
heat or not. If so then add no more than enough for a light boil) Mix contents for 5 to 10
minutes. Add an equal amount of hydrochloric acid and continue mixing for 5 to 10 minutes.
If heat was applied take off now. Add an equal amount of cold water. Filter through a coffee
filter in the strainer. Scrape the chunky RP off the filters back into the cooking pot. (This
will eat up a lot of small paper fibers, hair, cotton, lint or whatever.)
Acetone wash: Add enough acetone to cover the globs and chunks of RP. (Again you can add heat
if you like. Bring it to a controlled boil.) Mix for 5 to 10 minutes. Let cool or add a
little cold water. Filter RP same way and return it to pot. (This will remove any glue or
other
acetone solvent junk.)
Water wash: Add enough distilled water to cover the RP globs. Bring this to a boil for 5 to
10 minutes. Filter out the RP and leave in filters to dry out. When dry roll and ball up
filters then brush out dust. Collect dust in a baggie and store. (This is a general cleaning
to remove any chemical residue.)
Other washes: Any of the following solvents have been safely used to wash RP... Methanol,
Ethanol, Denatured alcohol, Isopropanol, Toluene, Xylene. These would be done the same as
written above.
Screening: Put the RP in a stainless steel screen or plastic/steel mesh style coffee filter
and run acetone through it. The RP is washed through the screen with the acetone, and any
particles larger than the screen apertures are filtered out.
Washing order: The order does not matter as long as the RP is finished off with an acetone
wash then a distilled water wash.
Prefiring Red Phosphorus
React RP/I2: Weigh out your RP and put it into a bottle. Add half as much I2 to it and shake
it up. Add (dropwise) H2O2 when not reacting. Continue shaking and adding drops of H2O2 until
it's done reacting.
Filter out RP: After prefiring add water and shake. If it won't loosen up then put the
bottle in boiling water for 5 minutes. Filter the water/RP/I mix. Wash the RP with acetone
then water. Dry it out, baggie and save for a rainy day.
Note: Make sure drill has a 1/2" chuck.
This was compiled from many sources and through trial and error was refined to what you see.
It was written to be printed up, and used as a reference for anyone like swim that hasn't
been able to get lab grade RP. Swim's current run was scaled down using a 2-gallon bucket
with 114 boxes! It took over 3/4 gallon of acetone to extract the RP. Clean up will be
H2SO4/HCl, acetone, H2O, prefire, acetone, H2O, done!
Expecting to yield about 250mg per box. They're hoping to end up with an even ounce.
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METHCATHINONE
-------------
Methcathinone is probably the simplest illegal drug that you can produce. The
following recipes are so simple, that you *might* already have everything you need to make
your own Methcathinone.
Methcathinone is related to Methamphetamine. It is a speedy party type of drug,
most commonly snorted or smoked. It will not keep you awake for days on end though. Mainly
this drug is loved for the euphoria that it produces.
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Methcathinone Manufacture #1
----------------------------
Chemicals:
KMnO4 [Potassium Permanganate] - This is sold at 'Sears' in a blue bottle. (Catalog #4234415)
It's used to remove iron from water filters.
Pseudoephedrine HCl - Get a box of 96 'Equate' Tablets from Wal-Mart, or Sudafed's will work.
Isopropyl Alcohol [Isopropyl 70% Rubbing Alcohol] - Any grocery store or pharmacy
Hydrochloric Acid [HCl] - Sold as "Muriatic Acid"
Acetone - Sold at any hardware store or paint store
Distilled Water - Sold at any grocery store
Lab Stuff:
Strainer - The smaller the holes the better
Plastic Funnel - Check your local grocery store
Coffee Filters - Use "Maxwell House"
3 Mason Jars, Snapple Bottles, whatever works
Large Jug - Like a glass fruit juice jug
Measuring Cup - Marked in ML (Milliliters)
Syringe - The kind they use to feed babies by mouth, marked in ML's
Pyrex Dish - PYREX only!
Access to a refrigerator
Access to a microwave
Ephedrine Extraction:
Take all 96 pills, and put them in the strainer. Add some crushed ice, you want more like
ice shavings other than big chunks of ice. Simply shake the strainer back and fourth, as
the ice melts, you will notice the red coating on the pills coming off. You may want to
quickly rinse the pills once or twice. When you notice most of the red coating is gone
(the pills will be a light pink in color), it's time to take the pills and put them in one
of the Snapple bottles. You must now add 150ml of distilled water. Now place the jar in the
microwave (leave the cap off), and heat until the water is hot, not boiling but hot. Shake
the bottle (with the cap on) until all the pills break apart, then let it settle. Using the
plastic funnel and coffee filters, you now want to filter the water into another Snapple
bottle, cap this bottle and set it aside. You will want to scrape all the mushy ephedrine
powder from the coffee filter back into the first bottle, add 150ml of distilled water, and
heat again. Filter adding the water to the second Snapple bottle (that all ready has the
150mLs from your first filtration). Again you will repeat this process (another 150mL of
water).
You should now have 450mL of water in one bottle and some gritty ephedrine in the other. Cap
the bottle with the water and put it in the refrigerator. Wash the other bottle out and set
it aside. The bottle with the water contains the ephedrine water.
You must now prepare your KMnO4 (Potassium Permanganate) solution. Measure out the 7.43 grams
of Potassium Permanganate, and put it in the clean, empty Snapple bottle. Now, add 100mL of
distilled water, cap the bottle, and shake it real hard for a few minutes. Using the syringe,
measure out 15.5mL of this solution, and add it to 250mL of distilled water in the 3rd Snapple
bottle. Cap, shake, and put it in the refrigerator. 15.5mL is about one tablespoon (15mL),
so if you do not have a syringe, then you can just use a tablespoon measurement.
You MUST allow both of these liquids to cool. If they are not cold then your reaction will
fail. So leave them in the refrigerator for a good 4-6 hours. I can not stress this enough;
the solutions must be cold. If you are an impatient person, then put them in your freezer
until they get a bit of ice on top.
Now it's time for the actual reaction. You simply mix the 265.5mL KMnO4 (potassium
permanganate) Solution, with the 450mL ephedrine extract in a jug. Just cap it, shake, and
set it in the refrigerator for at least 8, but no more then 12 hours.
After about 8 hours, check the mixture to see if there is any purple color, if there is then
let it set for another hour or so. Once you see there is no more purple color, remove the
solution from the refrigerator. It should smell sweet, kind of like pistachio ice cream.
You must now add 100mL of Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol. This is done so that the remaining
potassium permanganate will have something else to oxidize (instead of the ephedrine). Just
let this mixture sit out for about 2 to 3 hours in room temperature.
Your mixture should now be at about room temperature; it's time to filter. Set up the funnel
over one of the Snapple bottles used earlier (wash the Snapple bottle first). Put about two
or three coffee filters in the funnel, and slowly pour the solution through them (slowly so
all those particles in the bottom don't pour out and clog your filter). You will probably
need to filter three or four times. You want your liquid to be as clear as possible.
You need to adjust the pH to about 5 to 6.5. To do this, use a little muriatic acid. Only
add a few drops, not much is needed. Once you have the correct pH, swirl your final mixture
and let it set for a while. Now, filter it through about five coffee filters. This is your
last chance to get any junk out of it. Your liquid should be almost totally clear. What you
have is methcathinone. If you desire to do so, you can drink the solution. Most people would
prefer to have a crystalline powder however. So on to the next step.
Pour all your liquid into the Pyrex dish, and set in on the stove for about 3 hours at low
heat, you want to evaporate most of the liquid. Once you notice you have a mostly gummy
substance left, remove the dish from the stove. Now you can either use a blow drier, or
simply leave the dish out for about a day. You should notice crystals in the dish the
crystals are going to be gummy, so you simply add some Acetone. The methcathinone is not
soluble in Acetone, the other gummy substance is. After adding the acetone, swirl it around
a bit. As the gummy substance dissolves, pour it off. You should notice some brownish to
white crystals, this is your methcathinone! You may have to do this again, just let the
crystals dry and add more acetone. Once all of the crystals are dry, scrape the crystals
out of the dish into something.
You should have about 3 grams of Methcathinone HCl, a Schedule 1 drug, so don't get caught.
Methcathinone can sell anywhere from $40-$75 a gram. It is best that you do not shoot
methcathinone
The great part about this recipe for Methcathinone is that most of the chemicals you need
will last you a long time. For the first potassium permanganate solution, you will still
have about 85mL of the first solution left. This can last quite a while. The muriatic acid
will last you a lifetime, because you only need a small amount for each cook. One bottle of
Isopropyl Alcohol should last you a while, though if you are planning on making a lot then
you should have about 3 bottles of it. The acetone will last quite a while, because only a
small amount is used to clean each batch. The only thing you would have to keep buying for
each batch is the Sudafed tablets.
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Methcathinone Manufacture #2
----------------------------
Preparing the ephedrine/pseudoephedrine solution:
Method A:
Add enough water to completely dissolve pure ephedrine or pseudoephedrine.
Method B:
Wash sudaphed tablets in cold water until most (it's impossible to get all of it) of the red
coating is gone. Put the tablets in hot water, heat them to boiling, and stir until the
tablets have completely dissolved. Filter off the liquid.
The amount of water the (pseudo-)ephedrine [I'll call it ephedrine from now on for simplicity]
is dissolved in is not too important - it should be as little as possible, but at least as
much as the amount of sulfuric acid that is added later (to insure to that the potassium
dichromate dissolves). To this aqueous mixture add 0.62 grams of potassium dichromate for
every gram of ephedrine in the solution. If you used sudaphed tablets, figure by the
theoretical amount in solution (number of tablets X content of each tablet). Slowly add
3ml Sulfuric for each gram ephedrine, stirring as you add it.
Let react for 30-60 minutes. The color should go from a bright red/orange to a dark color
(a mixture of green and orange from the two ionization states of the chromium). Basify the
solution with concentrated sodium hydroxide solution until you see the solution become a
bright green (green with a white precipitate - the methcathinone). This happens above pH
8. Try not to add too much hydroxide (if you do the solution becomes black and there is
probably some decomposition of the methcathinone).
Extract 3-4 times with naptha (add the naptha, shake it up, pour off as much naptha as
you can - but DON'T get ANY reaction mixture in the extracts!). Use as much naptha as would
equal about 50-100 percent of the reaction mixture.
Quickly add the extracts to 25ml of hydrochloric acid, diluted
1 part 36% HCl to 4-5 parts water. Shake the mixture, extract off the aqueous (lower)
portion. This is an acid solution of the methcathinone. [you may want to extract a second
time with HCl to get a slightly higher yield, a 3rd time adds nothing.] Evaporate the
mixture under low to medium heat (preferably under a vacuum) until it becomes thick. Add
acetone and stir it a little. if the mixture doesn't become white (crystalline) right away,
it hasn't been evaporated enough. Continue evaporating and adding acetone until it does.
Be careful not to burn the thick mixture (adding acetone helps keep the temperature down).
After getting crystals/precipitate, cover the mixture tightly and put in a freezer for 15
minutes. Remove from the freezer, filter the crystals off and wash with a small amount of
cold acetone. [If the crystals are less than white, you may want to purify them by boiling
and stirring them in acetone again, cooling the mixture and refiltering as described above.]
The white crystals/powder is methcathinone HCL. I wouldn't take more than 20mg for a first
dose, and I wouldn't take it if
NOTES:
This synthesis is very forgiving. Substitutions of potassium hydroxide for sodium hydroxide,
sodium dichromate for potassium dichromate and similar subsitution will not have an impact.
I wouldn't substitute anything for the sulfuric acid, however. HCl is used to make the drug
salt because it is so easy to evaporate the excess off. Any method of making drug salts you
are familiar with should be satisfactory. Ether works a little better than naptha, but it's
more dangerous. I stay away from it.
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---
GHB
---
GHB is "The Date Rape Drug." It has been known for it's very powerfull sexual
effects. I don't know much about GHB, so I don't have much to say about it. All I can say
is that some people love this drug, and totally live by it. Other's like to slip it into
girl's drinks at bars. Please use this drug properly, and not to rape some girl.
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GHB Manufacture #1
------------------
You will need:
Clean dry beakers and graduated cylinders, a set of chemical scales, narrow range pH strips
for 5.5-8.0, a hot plate, and (if you intend to make powder) two sealed tupperware containers,
a blender and a pyrex baking dish.
1) Accurately measure out gamma-butyrolactone (GBL) in the volume of milliliters (mls) you
want to react.
Example: You want to react 200 mls of GBL.
2) Multiply this number by the average density of GBL (1.124 gms/ml).
Example: (200 mls GBL) * (1.124 gms/ml) = 224.8 gms GBL
3) Divide this number by the average molecular weight of GBL (86.06 gms/mol).
Example: (224.8 gms GBL) / (86.06 gms/mol) = 2.612 mols of GBL
4) Multiply this number by the average molecular weight of NaOH (40.0 gms/mol)
Example: (2.612 mols) * (40.0) = 104.5 gms NaOH
5) Weigh out this much NaOH using a set of chemical scales.
6) Heat the GBL + 5% distilled water (by volume) to 100 degrees C
Example: 200 mls GBL + 20 mls distilled water heated to 100C
7) Completely dissolve the NaOH in distilled water at the rate of about 40 grams per 100 mls
of water.
Example: (104.5 gms NaOH) / (40) = 2.6125 * 100 mlw H2O = 260 mls water
8) *SLOWLY* drip (DO NOT POUR) 90% of the NaOH into the heated GBL and make sure that the
reaction is occurring (the solution will begin boiling vigorously). If the reaction is not
occuring, then you either have not heated the GBL to 100C or you have defective reactants
(throw them out and get fresh stuff). Once the solution begins boiling, you can turn the heat
off - the reaction will make its own heat.
9) Begin measuring the pH of the reaction solution with narrow range pH paper (5.0 - 8.0
paper). When the range begins to get to 7.5 to 8.0, stop dripping the NaOH solution. This
mixture will still have unreacted lactone in it - so now it is time to do some steam
distillation.
Steam Distillation (The purification step)
10) Put a thermometer in the solution capable of measuring 200C and crank the heat up on the
solution. You may want to add a boiling stone made from a clean piece of pea gravel to the
solution (don't use a boiling stick because you will burn it up, and don't use a chemical
boiling stone because they contain metals that are not supposed to go into humans).
11) When the solution gets up to 150-155C, cut the heat back enough to hold the temperature
steady at 150-155C. Hold it at that temperature until all bubbling stops. The beaker now
contains melted NaGHB.
12a) To make a liquid, add enough boiling water to make the dilution you want.
Example: You want 1 gram NaGHB per 5 ml of solution. 200 mls of GBL will make 329 grams
NaGHB. 329 * 5 ml = 1645 mls of solution. So add enough boiling water to bring the entire
solution up to 1650 mls.
12b) To make powder, pour out thin strips of the NaGHB melt into the pyrex casserole dish.
Return the melt to the low heat to keep it melted. Let the strips cool - they will begin to
curl up if the strips are about 1/2" to 1" in width. Scrape them up with a metal spatula and
put them into a sealed tupperware container. Pour out more strips and repeat the procedure
until you have used up all of the melt.
13) Let the strips in the tupperware container cool down and shake them around a bit (while
holding the lid tighly on). This will break up the strips.
14) Put the boken up NaGHB pieces into a blender (no more than 1/3 full) at high speed. You
may have to shake the blender around a bit to make sure everything is ground into powder.
Pour the powder into a sealed tupperware container.
15) You are done. Enjoy, and please don't do G and drive.
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GHB Manufacture #2
------------------
A Method for Making Powdered GHB (Gamma Hydroxybutyrate)
Never mix GHB with other substances - especially alcohol or other CNS depressants (like
sleeping pills).
Safety :
Wear gloves and safety glasses at all times. If any of the reagents or intermediates
contacts the skin, wash well with cold water.
For step 3, use electric oven only. In a gas oven, the pilot light may ignite alcohol fumes,
causing fire hazard.
Ingredients :
1. 60 grams of NaOH
2. 120 ml of gamma butyrolactone
3. 1000 ml of pure ethanol
These quantities are not fixed - use more or less as needed, but keep the proportions the
same. The NaOH can be dissolved in less ethanol, but these proportions make the process
easier and faster. The ethanol must be pure (no water in it) - don't use vodka. GHB will
not crystalize if there is water in the solution. Denatured ethanol can also be used, but
be sure to let it completely evaporate before ingesting it. Methanol can also be used, but
this is toxic, and excess must be removed before ingestion. If methanol is used, only 500ml
is required, but be sure all the methanol is evaporated before ingesting it (check there is
no methanol odor left).
Obtaining the ingredients:
NaOH, denatured ethanol and methanol are very easy to find. Just look up chemical products
in the yellow pages. Those chemicals are so common that you won't be asked what you are going
to do with it. Gamma-butyrolactone is difficult to find.
Equipment needed :
1. Screw cap bottle larger than 1000ml; if you choose plastic use HDPE, (it will be clearly
marked on the bottom)
2. Glass container at least 1200 ml. in volume.
3. Coffee filter papers (2)
Method :
1. Dissolve the NaOH in the ethanol - place the ethanol in the screw cap bottle and add the
NaOH. Shake and allow to stand until cool. Continue until all the NaOH has dissolved. Be sure
to release the cap frequently to release pressure.
2. When all the NaOH has dissolved (this can take an hour of shaking and waiting) pour it into
the glass pot and add the gamma-butyrolactone. A precipitate (this is the GHB) will form.
Allow to stand for an hour.
3. After allowing it to stand, filter the product through the 2 coffee filters (placed inside
each other), collecting the precipitate. Dry the precipitate by placing it in an oven on the
lowest setting for 24 hours. Use electric oven only! In a gas oven, the pilot light may ignite
alcohol fumes, causing fire hazard.
4. You can keep it in the powdered form (keep it in an airtight bag since it is hygroscopic
and will absorb water from the atmosphere). Alternatively dissolve it in 750 ml of water;
this will give a solution containing about 1g of GHB per teaspoon. Don't ingest the neat
solution in case there is unreacted NaOH which can burn the skin - mix it in 1/2 cup of water
of fruit juice.
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--------------
MDMA (ECSTASY)
--------------
MDMA is an Amphetamine drug that releases lots of Dopamine and Seritonin in the brain.
This is why MDMA makes your head tingle, this is also why it causes brain damage. Ecstasy is
addictive, and can cause depression after long term use.
Ecstasy is a big Party Drug. It is sold mainly at every Rave that there is.
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-------------------
MDMA Manufacture #1
-------------------
Method 1
To a well stirred, cooled mixture of 34g of 30% H202 (hydrogen peroxide) in 150g 80% HCO2H
(formic acid) there was added, dropwise, a solution of 32.4g isosafrole in 120ml acetone at
a rate that kept the reaction mixture from exceeding 40 deg C. This required a bit over 1
hour, and external cooling was used as necessary. Stirring was continued for 16 hours, and
care was taken that the slow exothermic reaction did not cause excess heating. An external
bath with running water worked well. During this time the solution progressed from an orange
color to a deep red. All volatile components were removed under vacuum which yielded some 60g
of a very deep residue. This was dissolved in 60ml of MeOH (methyl alcohol -- methanol),
treated with 360ml of 15% H2SO4 (sulfuric acid), and heated for 3 hours on the steam bath.
After cooling the mixture was extracted with 3x75ml Et2O (diethyl ether) or C6H6 (benzene).
Its recommended that, the pooled extracts can washed -- first with H2O and then with dilute
NaOH (sodium hydroxide). Then the solvent is removed under vacuum to afford 20.6g
3,4-methylenedioxyphenylacetone (3,4-methylenedioxybenzyl methyl ketone). The final residue
may be distilled at 2.0mm/108-112 deg C, or at about 160 deg C at the water pump.
Add 23g 3,4-methylenedioxyphenylacetone to 65g HCONH2 (formamide) and heat at 190 deg for
five hours. Cool, add 100ml H20, extract with C6H6 (benzene) and evaporate in vacuum the
extract. Add 8ml MeOH (methyl alcohol -- methanol) and 75ml 15% HCl to residue, heat on water
bath two hours and extract in vacuum (or basify with KOH and extract the oil with benzene and
dry, evaporate in vacuum) to get 11.7 g 3,4-methylenedioxyamphetamine (MDA).
To produce MDMA substitute N-methylformamide for formamide in the above synthesis.
Method 2
This is a less yealding method usually producing only MDA. It is a two step procedure first
reacting safrole with hydrobromic acid to give 3,4-methylenedi- oxyphenyl-2-bromopropane,
and then taking this material and reacting it with either ammonia or methylamine to yield MDA
or MDMA respectively. This procedure has the advantages of not being at all sensitive to
batch size, nor is it likely to "run away" and produce a tarry mess. It shares with the Ritter
reaction the advantage of using cheap, simple, and easily available chemicals.
The sole disadvantage of this method is the need to do the final reaction with ammonia or
methylamine inside a sealed pipe. This is because the reaction must be done in the temperature
range of 120- 140 C, and the only way to reach this temperature is to seal the reactants up
inside of a bomb. This is not particularly dangerous, and is quite safe if some simple
precautions are taken.
The first stage of the conversion, the reaction with hydrobromic acid, is quite simple, and
produces almost a 100% yield of the bromi- nated product. See the Journal of Biological
Chemistry, Volume 108 page 619. The author is H.E. Carter. Also see Chemical Abstracts 1961,
column 14350. The following reaction takes place:
To do the reaction, 200 ml of glacial acetic acid is poured into a champagne bottle nestled
in ice. Once the acetic acid has cooled down, 300 grams (200 ml) of 48% hydrobromic acid is
slowly added with swirling. Once this mixture has cooled down, 100 grarns of safrole is
slowly added with swirling. Once the safrole is added, the cheap plastic stopper of the
champagne bottle is wired back into place, and the mixture is slowly allowed to come to room
temperature with occasional shaking. After about 12 hours the original two layers will merge
into a clear red solution. In 24 hours, the reaction is done. The chemist carefully removes
the stopper from the bottle, wearing eye protection. Some acid mist may escape from around
the stopper.
The reaction mixture is now poured onto about 500 grams of crushed ice in a 1000 or 2000 ml
beaker. Once the ice has melted, the red layer of product is separated, and the water is
extracted with about l00 ml of petroleum ether or regular ethyl ether. The ether extract is
added to the product, and the combined product is washed first with water, and then with a
solution of sodium carbonate in water. The purpose of these washings is to remove HBr from
the product. One can be sure that all the acid is removed from the product when some fresh
carbonate solution does not fizz in contact with the product.
Once all the acid in the product is removed, the ether must be removed from it. This is
important because if the ether were allowed to remain in it, too much pressure would be
generated in the next stage inside of the bomb. Also, it would interfere with the formation
of a solution between the product and methylamine or ammonia. It is not necessary to distill
the product because with a yield of over 90%, the crude product is pure enough to feed into
the next stage. To remove the ether from the product, the crude product is poured into a
flask, and a vacuum is applied to it. This causes the ether to boil off. Some gentle heating
with hot water is quite helpful to this process. The yield of crude product is in the
neighborhood of 200 grams.
With the bromo compound in hand, it is time to move onto the next step which gives MDA or
MDMA. The bromo compound reacts with ammonia or methylamine to give MDA or MDMA.
To do the reaction, 50 grams of the bromo compound is poured into a beaker, and 200 ml of
concentrated ammonium hydroxide (28% NH3) or 40% methylamine is added. Next, isopropyl
alcohol is added with stirring until a nice smooth solution is formed. It is not good to
add too much alcohol because a more dilute solution reacts slower. Now the mixture is poured
into a pipe "bomb." This pipe should be made of stainless steel, and have fine threads on
both ends. Stainless steel is preferred because the HBr given off in the reaction will rust
regular steel. Both ends of the pipe are securely tightened down. The bottom may even be
welded into place. Then the pipe is placed into cooking oil heated to around 130 C. This
temperature is maintained for about 3 hours or so, then it is allowed to cool. Once the pipe
is merely warm, it is cooled down some more in ice, and the cap unscrewed.
The reaction mixture is poured into a distilling flask, the glass- ware rigged for simple
distillation, and the isopropyl alcohol and excess ammonia or methylamine is distilled off.
When this is done, the residue inside the flask is made acid with hydrochloric acid. If
indicating pH paper is available, a pH of about 3 should be aimed for. This converts the
MDA to the hydrochloride which is water soluble. Good strong shaking of the mixture ensures
that this conversion is complete. The first stage of the purification is to recover unreacted
bromo compound. To do this, 200 to 300 ml of ether is added. After some shaking, the ether
layer is separated. It contains close to 20 grams of bromo compound which may be used again
in later batches.
Now the acid solution containing the MDA is made strongly basic with lye solution. The
mixture is shaken for a few minutes to ensure that the MDA is converted to the free base.
Upon sitting for a few minutes, the MDA floats on top of the water as a dark colored oily
layer. This layer is separated and placed into a distilling flask. Next, the water layer is
extracted with some toluene to get out the remaining MDA free base. The toluene is combined
with the free base layer, and the toluene is distilled off. Then a vacuum is applied, and the
mixture is fractionally distilled. A good aspirator with cold water will bring the MDA off at
a temperature of 150 to 160 C. The free base should be clear to pale yellow, and give a yield
of about 20 ml. This free base is made into the crystalline hydrochloride by dissolving it in
ether and bubbling dry HCl gas through it.
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(PHENCYCLIDINE) PCP
-------------------
PCP can be considered a very evil drug. Since alot of it's effects are mainly
associated with gangs. The common use that this drug has with those associated with gangs
is the fact that PCP causes you to be able to resist large amounts of pain without being
effected. Also, PCP gives people lots of "Super Human" Strength. Supposedly some gangs in
California would smoke some PCP before going to kill someone, or before going to fight with
another gang.
So, Here is how to make it..
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Phencylidine Manufacture
------------------------
Phencyclidine and Other l-Phenylcyclohexylamines. Phencyclidine (PCP or angel dust) and its
analogs create many different types of effects, dependent mainly on the individual user. It
was first used to immobilize primates and is still used as an analgesic and/or anesthetic
agent. It has been used on humans for the same purpose with limited success.
As stated above, the effects are mainly determined by the user. Some people experience
paranoia, others have fits of rage, and others have great euphoria. Mood alterations are
always accompanied with time, perception and visual hallucinations. Some people have tried
the drug and do not agree with it, so I do not approve of the practice of telling people
that your PCP is THC or some other hallucinogen. These drugs are quite potent, so use them
with a great deal of respect (I think that overdoses have CP the bad reputation that follows
it today) as bummers from this drug have occurred often.
The way that ethylamine, diethylamine, methylamine, piperidine, etc., can be used as analogs
of one or another reminds me of the synthesis of LSD or DMTs. The formula is quite easy to
carry out and it gives good yields in large quantities. Note: Given are several different
methods. You may use any way that you feel will suit your needs and you may substitute any
of the amines with an equimolar amount of amine analog to produce the desired
l-phenylcyclohexylamine. However, the formulas stated give the best yields obtainable with
that particular amine.
These drugs are active orally, intermuscularly, and also by smoking. They should be kept in
a dark, well stoppered bottle, in a freezer as much as possible. CA, 13881 (1963).
METHOD 1. A mixture of 100 g of anhydrous ethylamine and 220 g of cyclohexanone is kept 16
hours, shaken with solid KOH, and the oil layer is removed by decantation. Distill the oil
layer in vacuo to get the intermediate N-cyclohexylidenethylamine. Prepare a mixture of
phenyllithium by mixing 11 g of lithium and 76 ml PhBr in 500 ml of Et20. Add the
phenyllithium dropwise to a solution of 51 g of the N-cyclohexylidenethylamine in 500 ml of
Et20, with stirring and cooling, to keep the temp at 0. Stir for one hour and then decompose
by adding water. Separate the Et20 layer, wash with H20 and distill to get
1-phenylcyclohexylethylamine or analog. The hydrochloride form is obtained in the usual way,
as given below.
METHOD 2. A mixture of 170 g of piperidine, 220 g of cyclohexylamine, and 750 ml of benzene
is azeotropically distilled until the evolution of H20 stops, then vacuum distill to get
cyclohexenyl-piperidine. p-toluenesulfonic acid monohydrate (190 g) in 250 ml of PhMe is
heated under a water trap until all the H20 is removed, then add a solution of 165 g of
cyclohexyl-piperidine in 500 ml of Et20, with cooling, to keep temp at 0. A solution of
I mole of PhMgBr (made from 157 g of PhBr and 24 g of Mg) in 750 ml of Et20 is added (still
holding the temp at 0 to 5). The mixture is stirred for an additional 30 min after the
dropwise addition is complete. Decompose the mixture by adding an excess saturated NH4Cl
and NH40H. The Et20 layer is removed, dried over K2CO3, and distilled to give
phenylcyclohexylpiperidine. Convert to the hydrochloride form by dissolving the free base
in an excess of iso-PrOH-HC1 and then precipitate the salt (the hydrochloride) with Et20
and crystallize from Et20-iso-PrOH (this is a mixture).
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COCAINE
-------
Cocaine is commonly made from the Coca Plant in South America. It was the most
popular drug in the 70's, and the most expensive. In the 80s there was a way found to turn
Cocaine into Crack. That way it could be distrubuted to the poorer community.
The method for manufacturing Cocaine that I have put here is not how to make Cocaine
from Coca Plants, but how to produce a "Synthetic" cocaine in a laboratory.
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Cocaine Manufacture
-------------------
Cocaine is not a phenylethyl- amine, but it produces central nervous system arousal or
stimulant effects which closely resemble those of the amphetamines, the
methylenedioxyamphetamines in particular. This is due to the inhibition by cocaine of
re-uptake of the norepinepherine released by the adrenergic nerve terminals, leading to an
enhanced adrenergic stimulation of norepinephrine receptors. The increased sense of well
being and intense, but short lived, euphoric state produced by cocaine requires frequent
administration.
Cocaine does not penetrate the intact skin, but is readily absorbed from the mucus
membranes, creating the need to snort it. This accounts for the ulceration of the nasal
septum after cocaine has been snorted for long periods.
The basic formula for cocaine starts by purchasing or making tropinone, converting
the tropinone into 2-carbomethoxytropinone (also known as methyl-tropan-3-one-2-carboxylate),
reducing this to ecgonine, and changing that to cocaine. Sounds easy? It really is not very
simple. This synthesis is certainly worth performing with the high prices that cocaine is
now commanding. As usual, I will start with the precursors and intermediates leading up to
the product.
Succindialdehyde. This can be purchased, too. 23.2 g of succinaldoxime powder in
410 ml of 1 N sulfuric acid and add dropwise with stirring at 0 a solution of 27.6 g of
sodium nitrite in 250 ml of water over 3 hours. After the addition, stir and let the mixture
rise to room temp for about 2 hours, taking care not to let outside air into the reaction.
Stir in 5 g of Ba carbonate and filter. Extract the filtrate with ether and dry, evaporate
in vacuo to get the succindialdehyde. This was taken from JOC, 22, 1390 (1957). To make
succinaldoxime, see JOC, 21, 644 (1956).
Complete Synthesis of Succindialdehyde. JACS, 68, 1608 (1946). In a 2 liter 3 necked
flask equipped with a stirrer, reflux condenser, and an addition funnel, is mixed 1 liter of
ethanol, 67 g of freshly distilled pyrrole, and 141 g of hydroxylamine hydrochloride. Heat to
reflux until dissolved, add 106 g of anhydrous sodium carbonate in small portions as fast as
reaction will allow. Reflux for 24 hours and filter the mixture. Evaporate the filtrate to
dryness under vacuo. Take up the residue in the minimum amount of boiling water, decolorize
with carbon, filter and allow to recrystallize in refrigerator. Filter to get product and
concentrate to get additional crop. Yield of succinaldoxime powder is a little over 40 g,
mp is 171-172.
5.8 g of the above powder is placed in a beaker of 250 ml capacity and 54 ml of 10%
sulfuric acid is added. Cool to 0 and add in small portions of 7 g of sodium nitrite (if
you add the nitrite too fast, nitrogen dioxide fumes will evolve). After the dioxime is
completely dissolved, allow the solution to warm to 20 and effervescence to go to
completion. Neutralize the yellow solution to litmus by adding small portions of barium
carbonate. Filter off the barium sulfate that precipitates. The filtrate is 90% pure
succindialdehyde and is not purified further for the reaction to create tropinone. Do this
procedure 3 more times to get the proper amount for the next step, or multiply the amounts
given by four and proceed as described above.
Take the total amount of succinaldehyde (obtained from 4 of the above syntheses
combined) and without further treatment or purification (this had better be 15.5 g of
succindialdehyde) put into an Erlenmeyer flask of 4-5 liters capacity. Add 21.6 g of
methylamine hydrochloride, 46.7 g of acetonedicarboxylic acid, and enough water to make a
total volume of 2 liters. Adjust the pH to 8-10 by slowly adding a saturated solution of
disodium phosphate. The condensate of this reaction (allow to set for about 6 days) is
extracted with ether, the ethereal solution is dried over sodium sulphate and distilled, the
product coming over at 113 at 25 mm of pressure is collected. Upon cooling, 14 g of
tropinone crystallizes in the pure state. Tropinone can also be obtained by oxidation of
tropine with potassium dichromate, but I could not find the specifics for this operation.
2-Carbomethoxytropinone. A mixture of 1.35 g of sodium methoxide (this is sodium in
a minimum amount of methanol), 3.5 g of tropinone, 4 ml of dimethylcarbonate and 10 ml of
toluene is refluxed for 30 min. Coo] to 0 and add 15 ml of water that contains 2.5 g of
ammonium chloride. Extract the solution after shaking with four 50 ml portions of chloroform,
dry, evaporate the chloroform in vacuo. Dissolve the oil residue in 100 ml of ether, wash
twice with a mixture of 6 ml of saturated potassium carbonate and three ml of 3 N KOH. Dry
and evaporate in vacuo to recover the unreacted tropinone. Take up the oil in a solution of
aqueous ammonium chloride and extract with chloroform, dry, and evaporate in vacuo to get an
oil. The oil is dissolved in hot acetone, cool, and scratch inside of flask with glass rod
to precipitate 2- carbomethoxytropinone. Recrystallize 16 g of this product in 30 ml of hot
methyl acetate and add 4 ml of cold water and 4 ml of acetone. Put in freezer for 2l/2 to 3
hours. Filter and wash the precipitate with cold methyl acetate to get pure product.
Methylecgonine. 0.4 mole of tropinone is suspended in 80 ml of ethanol in a Parr
hydrogenation flask (or something that can take 100 psi and not react with the reaction,
like stainless steel or glass). 10 g of Raney Nickle is added with good agitation (stirring
or shaking) followed by 2- 3 ml of 20% NaOH solution. Seal vessel, introduce 50 psi of
hydrogen atmosphere (after flushing vessel with hydrogen) and heat to 40-50. After no more
uptake of hydrogen (pressure gauge will hold steady after dropping to its lowest point)
bleed off pressure and filter the nickle off, rinse out bottle with chloroform and use this
rinse to rinse off the nickle while still on the filter paper. Make the filtrate basic with
KOH after cooling to 10. Extract with chloroform dry, and evaporate the chloroform in vacuo
to get an oil. Mix the oil plus any precipitate with an equal volume of dry ether and filter.
Add more dry ether to the filtrate until no more precipitate forms, filter and add to the
rest of the precipitate. Recrystallize from isopropanol to get pure methylecgonine. Test for
activity. If active, skip down to the step for cocaine. If not active, proceed as follows.
Stir with activated carbon for 30 min, filter, evaporate in vacuo, dissolve the brown liquid
in methanol, and neutralize with 10% HCI acid in dry ether. Evaporate the ether until the
two layers disappear, and allow to stand for 2 hours at 0 to precipitate the title product.
There are many ways to reduce 2-carbomethoxytropinone to methylecgonine. I chose to design
a Raney Nickle reduction because it is cheap and not as suspicious as LAH and it is much
easier than zinc or sodium amalgams.
Cocaine. 4.15 g of methylecgonine and 5.7 g of benzoic anhydride in 150 ml of dry
benzene are gently refluxed for 4 hours taking precaution against H20 in the air (drying
tube). Cool in an ice bath, acidify carefully with hydrochloric acid, dry, and evaporate
in a vacuum to get a red oil which is treated with a little portion of isopropanoi to
precipitate cocaine.
As you can see, this is quite a chore. The coca leaves give ecgonine, which as you
can see, is only a Jump away from cocaine. If you can get egconine, then dissolve 8l/2 g of
it in 100 ml of ethanol and pass (bubble) dry HC1 gas through this solution for 30 min. Let
cool to room temp and let stand for another 11/2 hours. Gently reflux for 30 min and
evaporate in vacuo. Basify the residue oil with NaOH and filter to get 8.4 g of
methylecgonine, which is converted to cocaine as in the cocaine step above.
Below is given a somewhat easier method of producing tropinone by the general
methods of Willstatter, who was instrumental in the first synthetic production of cocaine
and several other alkaloids. After reviewing this method, I found it to be simpler than the
above in many respects.
Tropinone. 10 g of pyrrolidinediethyl diacetate are heated with 10 g of cymene and
2 g of sodium powder, the reaction taking place at about 160. During the reaction (which
is complete in about 10 min) the temp should not exceed 172. The resulting reaction product
is dissolved in water, then saturated with potassium carbonate, and the oil, which separates,
is boiled with dilute sulfuric acid. 2.9 g of tropinone picrate forms and is filtered.
Here are two more formulas devised by Willstatter that produce tropinone from
tropine. Take note of the yield differences.
Tropinone. To a solution of 25 g tropine, dissolved in 10 times its weight of
20% sulfuric acid are added 25 g of a 4% solution of potassium permanganate in 2 or 3 g
portions over 45 min while keeping the temp at 10-12. The addition of permanganate will
cause heat (keep the temp 10-12) and precipitation of manganese dioxide. The reaction
mixture is complete in I hour. A large excess of NaOH is added and the reaction is steam
distilled until I liter of distillate has been collected. The tropinone is isolated as
the dibenzal compound by mixing the distillate
with 40 g of benzaldehyde in 500 cc of alcohol and 40 g of 10% sodium hydroxide solution.
Let stand several days to get dibenzaltropinone as yellow needles. Yield: 15.5 g, 28%.
Recrystallize from ethanol to purify.
Tropinone. A solution of 12 g of chromic acid in the same amount of water (12 g)
and 60 g of glacial acetic acid is added dropwise with stirring over a period of 4 hours
to a solution of 25 g of tropine in 500 cc of glacial acetic acid that has been warmed to
60-70 and is maintained at this temp during the addition. Heat the mixture for a short time
on a steam bath until all the chromic acid has disappeared, cool and make strongly alkaline
with NaOH. Extract with six 500 cc portions of ether and evaporate the ether in vacuo to get
an oil that crystallizes readily. Purify by converting to the picrate or fractionally distill,
collecting the fraction at 224-225 at 714 mm vacuo.
The tropinones can be used in the above formula (or in a formula that you have found
elsewhere) to be converted to cocaine. Remember to recrystallize the 2-carbomethoxytropinone
before converting to methylecgonine.
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OPIATES
-------
Opiates are a class of drugs that most commonly come from the Opium Plant. Some of
the most common Opiates include but are not limited to: Codeine, Morphine, Heroin, etc.
Opiates are downers, they make you feel like you are in a Drunk state. Most alcoholics
will tell you that if you take a Morphine pill, that you can drink as much beer as you want,
and you won't get drunk. This is not true. The reason that alcoholics claim that you cannot
get drunk after taking a morphine pill is simply because they are already in a drunk state
of mind. Since alcoholics are so used to this state of mind, they ignore it as if it is a
normal part of their mind.
So, here are many different Opiate drug manufacturing techniques that you might find
usefull.
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Extracting Codeine from Codeine Pills
-------------------------------------
The idea behind the following extraction is that acetaminophen and aspirin (I'll use A/A from
now on) are very _insoluble_ in cold water. Codeine phosphate (the most common salt of
codeine) is very _soluble_ in water including cold water. The following table explains:
Solubility (31C water) Solubility (21C water)
Aspirin 1g / 100 ml 1g / 300ml
Acetaminophen 1g / 70 ml 1g / 150 ml
Codeine 1g / 2.3 ml 1g / 0.7 ml
Phosphate
So as you can see, both A/A aren't very soluble in 21C water, so if you cool the water to
around 10C, the solubility will drop even further. That way you can dissolve 20 tablets in
50ml of hot water, cool the water down to 10C, filter the solution and end up with the same
amount of codeine as the tablets contained but only a fraction of the original amount of A/A.
1. Obtain a quantity of tablets containing codeine, check to see if they contain anything
other than codeine, caffeine, acetaminophen or aspirin. If they do, and you don't know
whether or not it will be a problem, your best bet is not to use them. Measure out your
desired amount of codeine (ex. 64 mg = 8 tablets * 8mg/tablet). You may want to add 2 extra
tablets as it is quite likely you will lose some codeine in the procedure. As you get more
experience with the procedure you will be able to get approx. 95% of the codeine extracted.
2. Measure out some nice hot water, use approx. 40ml / 20 tablets or more if needed. I would
suggest you don't go over 50ml for 20 tablets. I don't know if the use of boiling water
would destroy any of the codeine but your best bet is not to use it. Use hot water but not
boiling. Make sure the tablets dissolve completely. Some dissolve on contact with water
while others need some help dissolving by crushing them. Note : not all of the tablet will
dissolve, there are water-insoluble fillers in the tablet and not all of the A/A will
dissolve either(which is what we want).
3. Place the solution in a cold bath, I just use some ice cubes in a container of water.
Stir the mixture occasionally until the solution drops to about 15C or lower. You won't need
a thermometer to measure the temperature, just make sure it's "cold". This will take about
30 min. If you wish to speed this up, you can use less water to dissolve the tablets, and
add ice chips to cool the mixture faster. Just make sure you don't add so much ice that you
drastically increase the volume of the mixture.
4. Filter the solution using whatever you have. Coffee filters work well, but lab filters
work the best. Just make sure you don't end up with obvious solids in the filtered solution.
This will take about 1 hr. You may also want to rinse the solids left over in the filter
with some ice-water to extract any remaining codeine.
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--------------------------------------------------
Converting Codeine into Morphine, then into Heroin
--------------------------------------------------
You will need to begin with almost pure codeine.
Now, make up a caustic solution of about 200ml of water. This is done by slowly adding NaOH
to the solution until it has a pH balance of 12 (use cheap pH strips). Then add 30ml of it
to the codeine/water mix and then add 50ml of chloroform and shake and allow the heavier
solvent to sink to the bottom. Then you must separate off the chloroform layer by using a
siphon (use an eyedropper if you need to), then wash the remanding solution again with 30ml
of chloroform and once again remove it. Now you must separate all the water from the solvent
and I mean every last drop. All of the water must be out, and you can pipette it or use a
separator of some kind (like a flask with a tap, so you shut it off when the water gets close
to running through). Then evaporate off the chloroform with a pot filled with simmering water
in it. Just have a plate sitting on top of the pot and slowly tip in solution and watch white
crystalline codeine base appear as the chloroform reduces out by dryness.
Tips: You want white codeine not brown and always use glass; its easier to clean.
Next step producing Morphine from Codeine:
Now, you need to then measure out about 3 grams of pyridine HCL for approximately one and a
half grams of codeine and melt it in a long boiling tube (or big test-tube). Then when
melted, place in the codeine and it all must dissolve and be able to swish around. Then
immediately plug the tube with a tightly rolled paper napkin. It will turn different colors
and it will be hard to tell when it's cooked, but let it take about 5 minutes or when the
temperature hits around 230 Celsius and then it will be done, and it will stick to the sides
of the tube when ready. Then tip all of it into a clean beaker with 100ml of water. Then tip
some water back into the now cooler test-tube and rinse all of it out into the beaker. Next
add caustic solution drop by drop till you get to pH 14 (take about 3ml of the solution
stated above). You will need some pH papers. Now wash the solution with chloroform say 40ml
shake well and allow to settle or centrifuge (spin), pipette off the top aqueous layer. Then
drop the pH to 9 and shine a light through it; you'll see it thicken with this brown mud
like shit. Don't go past 9, add one or two small drops once you hit 9 and filter that crap
out. The beat way is to use a vacuum filter with really good filter paper. Now, check the
pH you want it to go no lower than 7.5 (using HCL spirits of salts and hydrochloric acid)
while it gets to 8pH start rubbing the sides of the beaker with a glass rod or handle of a
wooden spoon right in the liquid at the water level rub hard on the beaker glass and morphine
will seed in clouds off crystals, then filter them out and dry high above an heating element
on a metal spoon (leave the dope on the filter paper and dry it then it is easy to get off
it flakes off in chunks).
Note: These crystalline codeine particles can be taken orally (under your tongue for faster
results) or mixed in a drink, if you wish not to convert it into heroin.
Now, Converting your Morphine into street quality Heroin (diacetylmorphine)Procedure:
First, place some of your converted morphine into a metal spoon and add acetic anhydride
and then cover with a piece of aluminum foil and bake in the oven at around 80 degrees
Celsius, for at least 1 hour. Then uncover and turn the oven off. Allow the last of the
acetic anhydride to sweat off the substance. Then place the remaining substance in the
refrigerator. When the substance is cold, you can move it to a burner (torch lighter) and
just heat till you think its at about at least 80 degree's and sniff a couple inches above
it. It shouldnt sting your nose, if it does just heat it lightly some more until the smell
goes away. Voila! Now the final product is street quality heroin. Ready to either be taken
or sold.
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Synthetic Heroin Synthesis (Fentanyl)
-------------------------------------
Introduction:
Fentanyl and its analogs are among of the most powerful opiate agonists, but their synthesis
are often hard. Here is a synthesis of Fentanyl which can be easily adapted for the other
analogs (Para-Fluoro-Fentanyl, Alpha-Methyl-Fentanyl).
This procedure is not theoretic and have been tested and improved many times over. This
synthesis is conducted at room temperature so you don't need any special apparatus.
Fentanyl is a very interesting component for underground chemistry because one gram of pure
fentanyl is equivalent of 100gr of very good street heroin.
Principle:
The precursor used is N-Phenethyl-Piperidone (NPP) which can be easily synthesized from
Piperidone and Phenethyl-Tosylate or Phenethyl-Bromide through a simple SN2 mechanism.
The NPP is reacting with Aniline giving the Imine derivative which is reduced to the
4-Anilino-N-Phenethyl- Piperidine (4-ANPP).
The 4-ANPP is then reacted with Propionyl Chloride giving Fentanyl which is then purified.
Procedure:
N-Phenethyl-4-piperidone (NPP)

N-alkylation of 4-piperidone can be done in PTC conditions - and no need to isolate your
piperidone as free base. Add to one liter of acetonitrile 3 mole finely powdered potassium
carbonate, then add 10 g of PTC catalyst - TBAB or TEBA, or just polyethylene glycol-400.
Stir this suspension 15 min at 50-60C, and then add in little portions your 4-piperidone
hydrochloride, watching that the CO2 evolution wasn't too vigorous. Stir another hour at
50-60C, and then add phenethylbromide dropwise , and stir 15-20 h at mild reflux. Then cool,
and filter off inorganic salts - if filtration goes too slowly, add to suspension some
(30-40 ml) saturated sodium sulphate solution, this makes the sticky precipitate granular
and filterable. Yield almost quantitative (trust me), and no distillation needed - as result
you have slightly yellow solid with mp 60C.
a) Synthesis of the Imine derivative of NPP:

10 mmole of NPP is dissolved in a minimal volume of Aniline (about 5-6 ml), then 1 gr of
4A Molecular Sieves is added.
The mix is really gently stirred (so that the Molecular Sieves aren't destroyed by the
agitation) with a magnetic stirrer for about 24 H at room temperature.
The conversion have repeatedly been calculated with MS and is more than 99%, so the next
phase can be conducted without any purification.
b) Synthesis of the ANPP:

The reaction mixture from (a) is filtered from the Molecular Sieves which are rinsed with
2*2ml THF, the filtrate and washings are poured into a 50 ml flask, whereupon 20 ml dry
Methanol is added, and the mix is stirred.
About 1-1.5gr of Sodium Borohydride is very slowly added to the mixture at room temperature,
and the mix is stirred for about 2 h. The conversion into ANPP is checked with any method
and if not completly reduced, add slowly another 0.5gr NaBH4 and stir for one more hour.
When the conversion into ANPP is complete (over 95%), evaporate the Methanol and THF under
vacuum.
After the evaporation there is a mass formed from the Aniline, excess NaBH4 and ANPP
complexed with borane.
Pour 50 ml of water into the flask, then destroy the complex by the slow addition of a small
quantity of concentrated HCl (35%) until the pH is about 1, then the mix is well stirred for
another hour. Now 50ml of a saturated NaCl solution is added to the mixture, and after about
10 min, a solid mass precipitate.
Separate the solid from the liquid with a filtration and keep the solid (this is ANPP
hydrochloride) after washing it with a little saturated NaCl solution.
Add another 50ml of saturated NaCl solution and place the mix in the fridge (at about 2C)
and wait 2-3 h. If there is more precipitate, filter the solution and add the solid to the
first crop. The solid mass is ANPP which must be treated.
Dissolve the solid in about 60ml water and 2N NaOH until the pH reaches 12.5, then extract
with 3*15ml CH2Cl2. Wash the CH2Cl2 phase with 5 ml water, and evaporate the solvent in
vacuum. The residue is an oily yellow-orange liquid which spontaneously crystallizes, this
is the ANPP which is pure enough for the next step.
The overall yield of ANPP is about 50-80%. The main loss of yield is during the purification
process because the separation process between the excess of Aniline and ANPP is not
optimized. There are perhaps some solutions to this, which will be discussed in the
optimization and discussion chapter.
c) Conversion of ANPP to Fentanyl:

10mmols of ANPP are dissolved in about 8 ml of Pyridine with stirring, and then 12 mmoles
of Propionyl Chloride is added dropwise to the reaction mixture at room temperature. The
reaction is exothermic and the Propionyl Chloride must be carefully added, so that the
temperature doesn't rise over 60C. You don't need a cooling bath, the temperature should
be controlled with the addition rate of Propionyl Chloride and must stay between 30 and 60C
during the addition.
When all the Propionyl Chloride is added, the reaction mixture is stirred for about one hour
at room temperature.
Check the conversion with any method and if not complete add another 1 mmol of Propionyl
Chloride. Normally the conversion should be complete after the first operation but if there
is too much Aniline you need more Propionyl Chloride.
The reaction mix is then poured into 80 ml water with stirring, and conc HCl (about 35%) is
added dropwise until the pH falls below 1.5. This operation can be done with another
procedure as follows: Prepare 80 ml of 2N HCl and simply pour the reaction mix into this
solution. This results in the pyridine and the fentanyl turns into their respective
hydrochlorides. The solution is then left with stirring for about 30min. The Pyridine HCl
is not soluble in CH2Cl2, while the nonpolar Fentanyl HCl is. Extract the solution with 3*20ml
of CH2Cl2, then wash the organic phase with 2*10ml saturated NaCl solution.
The solvent is evaporated under vacuum, and a yellow mass is formed which consists of
Fentanyl hydrochloride with a small quantity of Propionanilide as an impurity. 10-15ml
Acetone is now added, and a white powder forms, which is Fentanyl HCl. Filter the solid and
wash it with a small quantity (2*3ml) of acetone.
The Fentanyl HCl is now pure enough for use (>99.5%). The yield in this step is over 90%!
If not pure enough (it was never the case for me) you can purify it by recrystallisation from
hot acetone.
d) Preparation of synthetic white Heroin for street use:
The pure Fentanyl can not be used as is, because it's much, much too strong and MUST be
diluted, else there will be a lot of overdoses!
The following procedure gives a white heroin wich is the same as very good (30%) street
heroin.
100mg of Fentanyl.HCl is dissolved in 2ml of Methanol. Weigh up 10g of Lactose and warm it
at about 60-70C into a large dish with a hotplate. Add the methanolic solution of Fentanyl
dropwise at regular intervals into the warm Lactose for a good pre-mix . Wait until all the
Methanol is evaporated and mix the Lactose-Fentanyl thoroughly. This is crucial because if
this is not thoroughly mixed, there will be a part of the Lactose without Fentanyl and part
of the Lactose with too much Fentanyl, possibly causing dramatic overdoses!
Now you have a very high quality of street white Heroin.
This type of Heroin was used and sold during a year, and the feedback of the consumers was
very good. The consumers were very happy and didn't want the usual brown Heroin anymore. So
be careful, some people (The Mafia and other dealers) will perhaps turn very jealous!
Remember that with 1gr of pure Fentanyl HCl you can make 100gr of very high quality Heroin!
DON'T USE and DON'T SELL pure Fentanyl HCl, this is a very toxic material which can cause
many overdoses if not diluted!
e) Optimization and discussion:
The overall yield of this synthesis is about 50-80% and the main loss of product is during
the purification of ANPP in step (b).
There are perhaps other alternatives for the separation of Aniline and ANPP
(recrystallisation, distillation). I think a good solution is extracting the Aniline and
ANPP together and separate them with the evaporation of Aniline under vacuum, then
recrystallize the ANPP in a suitable solvent.
Para-Fluoro-Fentanyl can be synthetised with this procedure using Para-Fluoro-Aniline instead
of plain Aniline, but the purification process must be adapted.
The very powerful Alpha-Methyl-Fentanyl can also be synthetised with this method using
N-(2-Phenylpropyl)-Piperidinone which can be synthetised from 1-Phenyl-2-Bromopropane and
Piperidinone or other methods. The 1-Phenyl-2-Bromopropane is used in the underground
manufacture of Amphetamine, and the procedure of the synthesis of this compound can be
easily adapted for the creation of N-(2-Phenylpropyl)-Piperidinone or the NPP
(N-Phenethyl- Piperidinone).
Fentanyl is a very good and powerful opiate but there are some remarks:
Fentanyl is very addicting , much more than simple Heroin , the regular users of this
synthetic white Heroin I described was really strong addicted.
The risk of overdose is really big, even with the dilution i described before, so test your
stuff before selling it! The duration of the effects is a little shorter than with normal
Heroin.
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-----------------------
Codeinone from Thebaine
-----------------------
Procedure:
To a 3-litre flask provided with a stirrer, a thermometer, and a gas outlet duct containing
calcium chloride, and containing a solution of 150 g of dry hydrobromic acid in 550 ml. of
di-n-butylether externally cooled down to -15C, there was added a solution of 2 g of iodine
dissolved in 100 ml. of dry methylene chloride, while the temperature was gradually lowered
to -20C.
Once such a temperature was reached, a solution of 100 g thebaine (purity 92.5%), dissolved
in 1000 ml. of methylene chloride previously cooled to -15C, was added. As a result of this
addition, the temperature increased to +10C. The temperature was then lowered to 0C in a
short time and was maintained at that level for further 7 minutes.
After that length of time, the contents of the flask were poured with vigorous agitation
into a 5-litre flask containing a suspension of 180 g of sodium bicarbonate in 1000ml of
water and 450 g of ice.
Agitation was continued for an hour and the reaction product separated into two phases. The
pH value of the aqueous phase was increased to 8 by addition of diluted soda and extracted
three times with 200 ml of methylene chloride. The extract was added to the previous organic
phase, washed with water, and dried with anhydrous sodium sulphate. The solvent was then
removed from the solution under vacuum until its volume was reduced to 1/leo Codeinone of a
clear pure colour was obtained by concentration of the solution, filtration and washing with
ethyl ether.
96 g Codeinone having a melting point of 165-167C and a purity of 90.36% were obtained with
a calculated yield of 98%.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------
Conversion of Thebaine to Codeine
---------------------------------
Procedure
A solution of 1.17 g (3.75 mmol) of thebaine and 79.8 mg (0.25 mmol, 6.7 mol%) of Hg(OAc)2
in 100 ml of 3N formic acid was stirred under nitrogen, for 6.5 hr. The solution was diluted
with 100 ml of saturated aqueous K2CO3 and extracted with CHCl3. The organic layer was washed
with water, dried over Na2SO4, and evaporated in a rotary evaporator.
The residue was dissolved in 5.3 ml of CHCl3 and allowed to react with 5.3 ml of a solution
of 1.1 g of hydrogen chloride in 10 ml of ether. A precipitate formed immediately, but the
reaction was allowed to continue for 30 min before the reaction mixture was diluted with
2.5 ml of CH2Cl2 and 2.5 ml of the above solution of hydrogen chloride in ether. The reaction
was allowed to continue for 15 min more, whereupon 250 ml of cold 0.2 N NaOH solution and
50 ml of CHCl3 were added to the mixture. After separation of the layers, the aqueous layer
was re-extracted with CHCl3. The combined organic extracts were washed with water, dried
over Na2SO4, and evaporated using a rotary evaporator.
To the residue, dissolved in 60 ml of methanol, was added 3.02 g (79 mmol) of NaBH4 in 73 ml
of methanol. Under nitrogen, the reduction was allowed to proceed for 15 hr. The resulting
solution was concentrated to a volume of 60 ml, diluted with 60 ml of 10% NaOH solution, and
heated to reflux. The reaction mixture was further diluted with 50 ml of water and extracted
with CHCl3. The organic extract was washed with water, dried over Na2SO4, and evaporated
using a rotary evaporator to yield 890 mg (79%) of crude white codeine, GC analysis of which
indicated 90% purity. The crude product was sublimed (100C/0.03 mmHg) to give codeine in 80%
yield, mp 151-154C.
Mercury concentration of codeine prepared as above was of the order of 22 ppm, according to
atomic absorption determination.
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--------------------------------------
Conversion of Oxycodone to Oxymorphone
--------------------------------------
It seems a number of bees have access to oxycodone. Once this compound is available, one
would immediately dream of converting this compound into the far more potent oxymorphone.
This would increase the potency by a factor of 15 when based on intramuscular application.
Most processes to split off the O-methyl in codeines are quite messy, the yield is low,
expensive or hard-to-get chemicals are required ... and a lot more worries which makes it
usually not parctical to do for bees. But now yours truly has now found a process TO DO IT
in a process adaptable to kitchen chemistry. All chemicals are cheap and unsuspicious.
Here is the procedure
A mixture of 3.15 g (10e-2 mole) of oxycodone, 28.3 g (3.1e-1 mole) of methanesulfonic acid
and 2.2 g of DL-methionine are heated to 40 C. The reaction mixture is stirred at this
temperature for 12 hours and then poured onto ice. The mixture is made alkaline with ammonia
to a pH = 8 to 9, then extracted with dichloromethane. The organic phases are washed with
water, dried over sodium sulfate and evaporated to dryness under reduced pressure. The crude
product thus obtained (2.51 g) is purified on a column of silica by eluating with pure
chloroform followed by a gradient with methanol. 2.17 g of oxymorphone are thus obtained,
which represents a yield of 72%.
You will most likely want to convert this into the hydrochloride: 5 g of the purified base
previously obtained are disolved in 30 ml of warm acetone. After concentration to about
10 ml, 5 ml of 6N hydrochloric acid are added to the warm solution. The mixture is cooled to
-10 C, and the precipitate is filtered off, washed with acetone and dried at 50 C in a
vacuum. 4.83 g of oxymorphone hydrochloride are thus obtained. Yield 87%.
With an overall yield of 63% and a potency increase of 15, the actual gain factor is around
9, i.e. you have 9 times more opioid activity than at the beginning. A one-day dose can
therefore be converted into a week-dose. No bad, eh?
The kitchen chemistry adaptions would include the use of a hair dryer insted of the reduced
pressure, skipping the purification process (the crude product should be clean enough and no
toxic chemicals have been used).
I already know your next question: will it work with codeine or other codeine derivatives
like dihydrocodeine or hydrocodone? NO, it won't. The yield would be terribly low (~15%) and
a lot of goo is formed so serious cleanup has to be done.
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---------
MARIJUANA
---------
Here in the Marijuana Section I will be covering two simple methods for making your
Marijuana better for smoking. Two different methods for extracting the crude form of THC from
yoru Marijuana. One of them is about how to make Hash Oil, and the other on how to make
Hashish
These methods are very simple, and can be carried out by anyone that has a bag of
pot, and want's to make it better.
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--------------------------------
Extracting Hash Oil using Butane
--------------------------------
This method has its basis in a fascinating industrial extraction method known as
Supercritical Fluid Extraction. It uses totally over-the-counter butane gas (8 oz can, camping
supply store, ~US$4.50) as the extraction solvent, and requires nothing even remotely
suspicious or difficult to purchase. The only other thing needed is about $2.00 worth of
PVC pipe: a section 1.5 (one and a half) feet long and 1 & 3/4" diameter (outer diameter I
believe), and two end caps. Threaded PVC is not necessary.
For reasons not yet clear to those of us investigating these things "unofficially," butane
(and perhaps other gas/solvents with similar ultra-low-boiling properties) selectively
solvate the desirable fraction(s) of cannabis oils, pulling out only a beautiful amber
"honey oil" and leaving the undesirable vegetative oils, waxes, chlorophyll, etc. behind
in the plant matter. Even unsmokable shade leaves produce a wonderfully clean and potent
gold oil with this method. I have every reason to suspect that this would work splendidly
to extract a super-strong and tasty oil from gross, unpalatable "schwag" commercial pot too,
and of course, the better grade of herb you put it in, the better the resulting oil.
Method:
In one of the PVC end caps, drill a single small hole in the center. This hole should be
correctly sized to snugly receive the little outlet nozzle of your butane can.
In the other end cap, drill a group of 5 or 6 small holes clustered in the center (like a
pepper shaker).
After putting a piece of paper towel or coffee filter inside it for filtration, put the end
cap with several holes on one end of the pipe. Push it on there real tight. This is the
bottom.
Fill the pipe up with plant matter that has been pulverized into a coarse powder. You want
it filled, but not packed down. (Full pipe estimated at 1.5 oz capacity, but this is a guess.
I did not weigh it.)
Place the top end cap on the pipe. Again, push it on as securely as you can by hand.

Find a location outdoors with a decent breeze. You want these butane fumes to be quickly
carried away. Seriously.
Mount the pipe (single hole-side up) over a vessel that can hold 300mL+. Beakers are perfect.
A lab stand and clamp are ideal for the mounting, but a regular shop clamp or anything that
can hold it sturdily is fine. (Avoid metal if you can, to reduce the chance of sparks.)
Position the bottom end of the pipe immediately over (1-2") the receiving vessel to eliminate
splatter loss.
Turn the butane gas can upside down and dispense the gas into the pipe via the single top
hole. A whole 8-oz can takes about 10-12 seconds to evacuate. Be brave, swift, and careful.
A spark at this moment would spell disaster since you have basically created an incendiary
explosive device that is leaking.
When you've exhausted the can into the pipe, back off to a nice distance and let it do its
thing.
The butane moves down the pipe, extracting the cannabis as it goes. When it gets to the
bottom (~30 seconds after dispensing), it begins to drain into the receiving vessel. Notice
the pale, glowing yellow-green-gold hue of the extract. It is obvious no chlorophyll was
pulled out of the herb.
Over approximately five to eight minutes, the butane extract will finish draining from the
pipe to the receiving vessel. Maintain caution with the pipe, however, since there is a lot
of residual butane still evaporating from within the pipe (notice the stream of fumes coming
from the top hole). When it slows down to a drop every few seconds, you can tap on the top
hole with your finger and it will help push the last of the liquid butane out (or one can
gently blow into the top hole to do the same thing). Remember, NO SMOKING, unless you wish
to immolate yourself in grand fashion.
Being very low-boiling and volatile, the collected butane will likely begin boiling at
ambient temperature. The receiving vessel will gradually frost up as the butane cools it
down, slowing down its rate of evaporation, but you can speed this up again simply by holding
it in your hands. A better way is to set it in a saucepan containing a little bit of warm
water. Watch the butane start bubbling madly with the increase in temperature and marvel at
its low boiling point. Again, be doing this outdoors with a nice breeze! It takes about 20
minutes or so to allow the butane to evaporate, or quicker if you help it along. You are left
with a deep amber, almost orange oil of amazing purity.
The best way to collect and store the oil is probably to let all of the butane evaporate off
and then redissolve the oil in some anhydrous or high-% alcohol, and then pour this into a
vial and let it sit out for a day or two to allow the alcohol to evaporate. Trying to
transfer the oil into a small container while it is still solvated by the butane is too
risky. I learned the hard way about this, thanks to the volatile temperament of butane. I
had filled a vial almost all the way to the top and was preparing to drop those last couple
drops in, so that cleverly, I could let the last of the butane evaporate from the vial and
the oil would all be neatly contained. But when the last drop hit the mother lode in the
vial, it changed the temperature of the solution in the vial upward by a hair and it all
"superboiled" out of the vial and onto my fingers, which of course startled me and caused
me to drop the vial. I suggest dissolving it in alcohol as I mentioned above. If you can
get pure or 99% isopropanol (isopropyl), use it, because THC's photosensitivity reportedly
does not occur in isopropanol.
The final product is a deep yellow-amber oil of the highest quality, incredibly pure and
potent. I remember well some of the prime "honey oil" hash oils that hit the market in the
late 1970s, and this stuff stands up to (if not exceeds) any of them. It's amazing how this
method extracts only the good fraction and leaves the junk in the weed. But that's exactly
what it does. Note also that this oil has a somewhat higher melt/vaporization point than
traditional hash oils; the traditional dispensing method (dipping a needle or paper clip in,
getting some goop on the end, and warming it with a flame to get it to drip off into your
bowl) still works with this stuff, but it seems you have to be more careful with it because
it doesn't heat to liquid state as quickly or in the same manner, and it can more easily be
allowed to burn up on your needle. So be careful.
Those who prefer a tincture-like preparation can of course thin the product a little with
a bit of warm high-percentage alcohol like Everclear or 90-whatever-% isopropyl, then drop
it onto buds or let a joint absorb some, then let the alcohol evaporate. I also observed that
unlike hash oil derived from traditional methods, this product is not immediately soluble in
room-temp alcohol; it needed to be warmed before it dissolved fully.
So there it is. Spread the word far and wide: honey oil is BACK!
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--------------
Making Hashish
--------------
Get a LOT of female plants that have grown all the way and may even contain seeds. Make sure
they are absolutely dry by hanging them in a shed for some weeks. Now take off All the leaves
that are bigger than 1/2 inch. You end up with just a stem with some buds sitting on it. Now
strip off the buds into a container. (BTW, Hash (moroccan style) consitsts EXCLUSIVELY of the
pressed grains of resin that are sitting on top of tiny resin glands that are most abundant
on the leaves surrounding the seeds, or flowers. when the plant is dry this resin hardens to
form a very small particle, called "pollen" which is not actual pollen however.)
So now youve got all the clean buds start crushing them over a kitchen sieve (mesh size about
0.5 mm). The seeds and stems will stay on top of the sieve. "Grind" the leaves gently through
the sieve. You end up with a sort of powdered leaves. Be sure that the thin skins that
surround the seeds are included in this result, because they contain most of the resin
glands. You may repeat this process using a sieve with an even smaller mesh size (0.25 mm).
Then take a cloth with the appropriate "mesh size" and rub the powder you have already got
over this cloth. In the ideal case, only the finestt particles pass through the cloth and
will ill consist only of tiny grains of resin. Now take this powder and wrap it into a sheet
of kitchen plastic foil. Now press this "package" between a few logs of wood.
The result is a sheet of hashisch. If the sheet falls apart again you've got too much leafy
stuff in between the resine. Try a cloth with a smaller mesh size the next time. This
procedure is only advised when you have so much weed to spare that you don't possibly smoke
it all in a year.
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--------------------
PSILOCYBIN MUSHROOMS
--------------------
Psilocybin Mushrooms are "Magic Mushrooms." They induce a 'trippy' state of mind,
and in larger doses; cause Hallucinations.
I recommend that you search the internet for "Spore Syringes." Since you need spores
inorder to grow your mushrooms, the internet is the perfect place to buy these spores.
The following is a guide to producing your own Mushrooms.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------
Growing Psilocybin Mushrooms
----------------------------
OVERVIEW OF PROCESS:
In this section I will just give a brief description of the growing process before I get into
the actual details of it. First off: Sterilization - Sterilization is a very important part
of mushroom cultivation, but not as important as most people think. What I mean by that is
the fact that there are probably billions of foreign contaminate spores floating around in
the air where you are now. If some of these spores get into your culture jars they can easily
kill your young plants. If we just use some common sense during the process of cultivation
we can easily block out 90% of these foreign spores, that means the ultra sterile complicated
methods (inoculating hoods, etc.) only block out the last 10% of the contaminates. I don't
mind the 10% odds of my having contaminated cultures. With those odds I will lose approximate.
1.2 jars per dozen, not too bad. Even with the complicated methods and setups I lose that
many cultures, so I've decided to bypass the complicated process, thus simplicity.
In my process, a mixture of organic brown rice flour, vermiculite and water are mixed in a
bowl and spooned into twelve 1/2 pint mason jars (15 minutes work). These jars are placed in
a covered pot of boiling water until sterile (about 20 minutes). After they have cooled they
are inoculated with spores (20 minutes work). At this time the jars are just placed under
your bed, on a shelf in a closet or in a drawer and left alone for approximately three weeks.
When this time period is up the jars are opened and the contents are mixed with potting soil
in a tray, similar to a Rubbermaid or Tupperware bread box, and left alone for another week.
Soon the entire surface of the soil will be covered with white mycelium and possibly dozens
of mushrooms in various stages of growth.
At this stage in the process all that is needed now is a once or twice a day misting (with a
hand sprayer) to keep the soil moist, and the picking of all matured mushrooms. It is a very
easy process to grow mushrooms using this method. Most books and manuals dedicated to
mushroom cultivation are based on laboratory processes, are very complicated and not easily
understood by the inexperienced cultivator. It is for this reason I have decided to write
this guide. Hopefully it will help shed some of the fears new growers may have about not
"knowing enough" to be successful. I recommend that when you are successful in cultivating
of your crops that you take one of your mature mushrooms and make another sporeprint with it
to replace the one that you used. This way you can always start a new crop whenever you desire
or if you pass this guide on to someone else they will have the seeds required to try this
cultivation process themselves.
SUPPLIES REQUIRED:
* Organic Brown Rice Flour: This *flour can be found in most any health food store and some
larger upscale grocery stores even carry it. It usually comes in a two-pound bag and costs
under $3.00. Make sure that the bag has the words "Organically Produced" on it, this is very
important. A two-pound bag will be sufficient to make about three dozen (36) culture jars.
* ADDITION May 12, 2000 : If you can't find brown rice flour you can substitute it with
either soy flour or rye flour as long as it states "Organically Produced" on the package.
* Vermiculite: This is a product that can be found almost anywhere garden supplies are sold.
I buy mine at either a K-Mart or Wal-Mart garden department or a huge bag costs under $4.00.
Its purpose is to retain moisture and help keep the soil from becoming too tightly compacted.
* Hand Spray Bottle: I buy mine at K-Mart in the health and beauty section. Make sure it has
an adjustable nozzle so you can spray a fine mist with it. These cost less than $1.00 each
(buy 2).
* Canning Jars: You will need to purchase a case (one dozen) of 1/2 pint or 1 pint canning
jars which are also called jelly jars or Mason jars. These can be found in about every major
grocery store and cost around $4.00 to $6.00 a dozen. Make sure they are "wide mouth",
meaning the top of the jar is larger than (or the same size as) the bottom of the jar, this
is so the contents will simply slide out of the jar when ready (1/2 pint = 8 ounces and 1
pint = 16 ounces).
*Plastic Trays: These can be purchased in K-Mart or Wal-Mart also and are about the size of
a standard shoe box with a snap on lid. I purchase mine in the K-mart kitchen storage utensil
area. They are called Modular Storage Containers made by Aero Housewares (stock #3515). They
are 13" x 7-1/2" x 6"high and come in packs of five for $4.89. If you can't find this exact
brand, any similar sized type will do as long as it has a lid on it.
* Potting Soil: This is just a small bag of potting soil, which can be purchased, also at
(you guessed it) the K-Mart or Wal-Mart garden section for $1.00 or less. This is the same
type of dirt you would purchase to plant most house plants in.
.This is the complete equipment list you will need to buy for cultivating mushrooms in your
own home, the total cost is under $20.00 and you should have no problem locating any of the
items. Everything else you will need, with the exception of spores, can usually be found
around the house and is listed below:
* Small Knife: This can be any small sharp knife that has a pointed end on the blade. It will
be used to scrape the spores from the sporeprint into the jars.

* Bleach: This will be used to sterilize the work area. Lysol spray is excellent for this
task but bleach is 1/10 of the price and also it is non-flammable.
* Water: This can be tap water, distilled water, drinking water, spring water or filtered
water. The only water we can't use is water that has been softened using a salt water softener
or saltwater itself.
* Large Pot with Lid: This just needs to be what it sounds like, a large pot with a lid on
it. The larger the better but as long as it is high enough to put the lid on with the canning
jars inside it is fine. This will be used to boil (sterilize) the jars in.
INOCULATING:
This is the first, and most important step in the process. What we will be doing here is
mixing the substrate, which is the nutritional food for your plant, and putting it into the
individual jars. These jars are then boiled in a covered pot of water to sterilize and kill
any germs or spores that may have gotten inside. After being removed from the boiling pot and
allowed to cool down, these jars are then opened and some spores are scraped inside from the
sporeprint and the lid is replaced. This is all there is to it.
Step 1: Remove the jars from the box they were purchased in, wash them in warm soapy water,
rinse well and dry. In a large mixing bowl measure 2-2/3 cups of "organically produced" brown
rice flour and eight cups of vermiculite. Mix these two ingredients together with a large
spoon until they are well combined, then add 2-2/3 cups of *water and continue mixing until
everything is equally combined and there are no dry spots. Spoon this mixture loosely (do not
pack tight) into 12 one half pint or 6 one pint canning jars equally. Wipe the rims of the
jars clean with a paper towel and put the lids on them (the rubber seal facing down).
* ADDITION April 23, 2000 : This additional step is not necessary, but it will help your crop
to produce up to 25% more shrooms. If you take one cup of the water and before you add it to
the dry mix in the bowl bring it to a boil in the microwave. When you take it out of the
microwave, while it is still hot, immediately stir in one teaspoon of honey (any kind). Then
you add the water to the dry mix in the bowl (along with the rest of the water) and stir as
directed. What this honey does is add more nutrients and dextrose (sugar) to your substrate
which is just more FOOD for the mycelium to consume (meaning more shrooms).
Step 2: Right before you place your jars into the pot or pressure cooker you will need to
*loosen the lids slightly to prevent the jars from cracking during the boiling cycle. Place
as many jars as will fit into the pot (standing up) without forcing. Slowly add water to the
pot until the level comes up halfway on the jars. Place the pot on a burner and bring it
slowly to a boil using medium high heat. Put the lid on the pot, reduce heat to medium low to
keep a low boil going and leave it alone for 20 minutes. When the 20 minutes are up remove
the pot from the heat and "leave the lid on" until the pot is warm to the touch without
burning your hand (do not be tempted to peek under the lid). When the pot is warm to the
touch, remove the lid, quickly remove each jar and tighten the lids down immediately, this is
to keep invading spores from entering the jars through the loose lids. If you could not fit
all twelve jars in the pot at one time, you can now repeat this process as many times as it
takes to get all of your jars sterilized.
If the jars you purchased have the two piece metal lids (disc and ring) you do not need to
leave them loose, so go ahead and tighten them down now before boiling. They are called self
sealing lids. The lids you must leave loose are the glass or ceramic lids.
Step 3: Once you have all of your jars sterilized and allowed to cool down to room
temperature (just sit them on a shelf *overnight) it is time to place the spores inside.
This is the point in the process where you just use common sense when it comes to being
sterile. Since the air is full of millions of spores all around you and it is almost
impossible to get rid of them, the next best thing you can do is to kill them. Find a small
room that is fairly clean, a kitchen is fine, where you will be wanting to do your transfer
of spores. Turn off all fans, heaters and air conditioners so the air in the room is sitting
still. On a clean counter or table place the following items:
It is a good idea to let your jars sit on a shelf for three days (after sterilizing, but
before adding the spores) to make sure that all contaminates in the jars were destroyed during
the boiling process. After the three days are up,and if you don't see any mold growing inside
your jars, it is a safe sign to proceed with your spore inoculation. This three day wait is
not really necessary, but it is better to find out if your jars are sterile before you add
the spores than to find out later and possibly lose your spores to a foreign contaminate.
* A small pointed knife (if using a sporeprint)
* A cigarette lighter (if using a sporeprint)
* A push pin thumbtack (if using a spore syringe)
* A roll of tape (if using a spore syringe)
* A spray bottle filled with a 50/50 mixture of water and bleach.
* The sterilized substrate jars you prepared earlier.
* The sporeprint (or spore syringe) you will be using.
* Wash and dry your hands.
Step 4: Adjust the nozzle on the bleach/water spray bottle to a fine mist and spray the air
in the room to kill any airborne bacteria and spores*. After the mist has settled for a few
minutes it is time to inoculate (plant seeds in) the jars. Note: If you are going to inoculate
with a spore syringe, skip the rest of Step 4 and go now to Step 4A. While you are doing this
it is a good idea to either hold your breath or tie a scarf over your mouth and nose so you
don't breathe germs into the jars while the lids are off (about 15 seconds each). Use the
cigarette lighter to heat the point of the knife till it is red hot and then let it cool back
down to room temperature which should take a couple minutes. Making slow moves, to keep from
causing a breeze, you can now take the lid off of the first jar and lie it upside down on top
of one of the other jars. Open the sporeprint and hold it at a sharp angle over the open jar
and with the tip of the knife scrape a small amount of spores on top of the substrate in the
jar, replace and tighten the lid. Breathe. Repeat this process until you have inoculated all
twelve jars. As far as how many spores to use; If you can see any spores fall into the jar,
that is sufficient. It usually takes an area of sporeprint about the size of a match head to
inoculate each jar. Move on to Step 5.
It is a good idea to cover your sporeprint with an upside down bowl before spraying the
bleach/water in the room. The bleach/water can kill the spores if it is allowed to get on the
sporeprint. After you spray the room please wait a couple minutes before removing the bowl
covering the sporeprint, this will give the spray time to settle in the room. It is also a
good idea to wear light color clothing since the spraying of the bleach water could possibly
spot dark clothing.
Step 4A: First you will need to take the thumbtack and poke a small hole in the center of the
first jar lid (without removing the lid from the jar). Carefully stick the syringe needle at
an angle into the hole you just made and squirt about 3/4cc of spore solution between the
glass side of the jar and the substrate. Remove the syringe needle from the hole and
immediately place a piece of tape over the hole to protect your substrate from any foreign
contaminates entering your jar through the hole. Continue this process until all of you
substrate jars have been inoculated with spore solution.
Step 5: Place the twelve jars on a shelf in a closet, under your bed or in a dresser drawer
and leave them alone for three weeks. You can look in on them if you wish from time to time
to check their progress but "never" take off, or even loosen the lid. The progress you are
looking for is a pure white mold growing on the surface of the substrate in the jar. This is
the mycelium (mushroom plant) which will one day put out lots of fruits we call mushrooms. If
any color of mold is noticed growing in the jars other than the snow white color of the
mycelium, that jar is contaminated and *sometimes must be destroyed. All that means is you
have to dump the jar out, wash it over and use it again. The jars you purchased can be used
dozens of times, over and over. These jars of mycelium will grow in almost any temperature
in your house as long as it is comfortable for you, usually that is somewhere in the high
60's to the high 70's. This white mycelium will first start growing on the top surface of the
substrate and then begin working its way down the sides of the jar. When it has grown to a
point that it is touching the bottom of the jar in at least one place it is time to case the
jars, which forces the mycelium to fruit.
A contaminated jar is not necessarily a lost jar. I recommend that if you see a foreign mold
(any color other than white) growing inside your jar, just leave it alone for a while. Most
of the time when these two molds meet (your mycelium and the contaminate) your mycelium will
kill the contaminate and your jar will survive. If the contaminate takes over and kills the
mycelium, then it is time to dump the jar out.
CASING:
In this phase of the process we will be going over how to introduce the mature mycelium to
soil in preparation for fruiting. It is a very easy process and the sterility is not of great
importance anymore because the mycelium in your jars is mature at this point and is fairly
strong and capable of fighting off most invading spores and bacteria on its own from this
point on.
Step 1: The supplies you need to get together for this step are, the potting soil, the
vermiculite (you should have a lot left over), a spray bottle of plain water, a large mixing
bowl, a large spoon, your plastic trays and the substrate jars with the mycelium growing in
them. Make sure you have all of these supplies in one place before you begin the next step.
Step 2: In the mixing bowl, add 1-1/2 cups of potting soil and 1-1/2 cups of vermiculite. Mix
these ingredients together using the large spoon until they are well combined. Using the
spray bottle of plain water, lightly spray the mixture and mix with the large spoon several
times until the mixture is moistened to field capacity, meaning that if you take a handful of
this mixture in your hand and squeeze it into a ball it will hold its shape but no water will
drip out. We want the mixture moist but not saturated.
Step 3: Pour the soil/vermiculite/water mixture into one of the trays and spread it level on
the bottom (at least one inch deep). Remove the lids from three of your substrate/mycelium
jars and dump the contents on top of the soil mixture on the bottom of the tray. Using freshly
washed hands, crumble the mycelium/substrate cakes into small pieces (about the size of
marbles) and spread them out into an even layer on top of the soil/vermiculite layer.

Step 4: Put 3 cups of plain potting soil into the mixing bowl. Using the spray water bottle
and the large spoon, spray and mix back and forth until your soil as reached the field
capacity stage (as described in step 2). Pour this into the tray on top of the crumbled
mycelium/substrate cakes and spread level with the spoon. What you should have now is a three
layer sandwich. Bottom layer being soil/vermiculite, center layer being crumbled up
mycelium/substrate cakes and top layer being plain premoistened soil. Put the lid on the tray
and repeat this process with your other jars and trays until you have all of your jars cased.

Step 5: Place these filled and covered trays in a closet, under your bed or in a dresser
drawer and leave them alone for seven days at room temperature. They do not require any light
during this time, but if they do get light it is alright, its just not necessary.
GROWING SHROOMS:
This is the last and final phase of the cultivation process; it is also the easiest and most
fun because it is the actual growing and picking of the mushrooms themselves. We have now
waited five or six weeks to get to this point and I know that everyone is excited about
finally being able to see the fruits of their labor.

Step 1: It is now time to remove the lids from your trays and let the plants breathe some
fresh air. By now you should have a white fungi (mold) growing across the surface of the soil.
This is your mature mycelium looking for a place to have its babies (mushrooms). Remove the
lids from your trays and put them away, we will no longer need them until it is time to reuse
the trays for another crop.
Step 2: Using your spray bottle of water, saturate the surface of the soil with 10 to 12 good
pumps of water. You want the soil to be fairly wet, but not to the point that your plants
will be sitting in still water. The layer on the bottom of your tray (soil/vermiculite) should
be able to absorb most overwatering and release it back into the soil as needed.
Step 3: Continue watering the surface once or twice daily as needed. It will not take very
long to be able to know when your trays need watering - when the surface is dry, it needs more
water. They seem to need more water during the cold months because of the dry air in your
home produced by your heater. If you have to miss a day of watering your trays for some
reason, you can just lie the lid back on top of the tray, leaving about a one inch gap so air
can circulate, right after you water it. This will allow your mycelium to breathe but at the
same time reduce evaporation.
Step 4: Within a short time of removing your lids, one day to one week, you should have
several mushrooms popping up out of each tray. When these mushrooms start to open up and
break the veil under the cap, they are ready for harvest. Just reach in and grasp the stem
as close to the soil as possible and give a twist, it will pop right out.
Step 5: This is not a step, just a reminder to keep spraying, and keep harvesting, until the
tray no longer is producing shrooms (one to two months). When your mycelium finally quits
producing shrooms you can dump out your tray, wash it and reuse it over and over. Well, that
is my method. It is really easier to do than most people think. If you have any questions
about this procedure you can e-mail your questions to me at mshroomer@yahoo.com and I will
answer them to the best of my ability.
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SALVIA DIVINORUM
----------------
Salvia Divinorum is a Herb that induces heavy hallucinations. Amazingly, this herb is
100% Legal in the United States. So you can literally smoke this stuff as much as you want,
and blow it in any cop's face, and he can't do a damn thing about it.
This section will describe how to make a Salvia Divinorum extract out of Salvia
leaves. Salvia extract is by far the best method for ingesting Salvia since the
hallucinations begin to hit you about 20 seconds after the first lung full of smoke.
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Extracting Salvia
-----------------
After several months of experimentation with various types of Salvia extractions, i have
finally settled on the following method as being the easiest and least expensive method for
home cookers. The extraction is basically in two parts. The first being an extraction with
water, and the second with acetone. This method produces high quality extracts by removing
most of the resins that would leave you with a gummy mess. Home extractions up to 20x are
possible in this manner. Please be aware that acetone is flammable and its vapors toxic.
for this you will need:
100 grams salvia divinorum (whole leaf or large pieces prefferred)
1 large mixing bowl
1 large piece of muslin or cheesecloth
1 gallon COOL distilled water (but not cold)
1 large glass baking dish (9x13 or so)
a coffee grinder
2 quart mason jar (must be glass)
1/2 gallon of acetone(do not buy "extra strength" or anything like that, and please evaporate
a few ounces to be sure it does not leave any residue, if it does, do not use it)
several coffee filters
1 wire strainer (6 inch or so, to fit the coffee filters comfortably, cannot be plastic)
1 small glass dish for evaporation (we use one that is 5 inch wide and 3 inch tall)
The recipe:
Take your mixing bowl and place the muslin or cheesecloth in it so that the edges are
liberally draped over the side of the bowl. Place the whole Salvia leaf on the cloth. Fill
the bowl with COOL distilled water to generously cover the leaf. Be sure to submerge and wet
all the leaf. Allow this to sit for ten minutes (no longer, and if your leaf was crushed it
should be for a shorter period, say 7 minutes). Gather up the edges of the cloth to make a
bag around the leaf and lift it out of the water to strain the leaf. GENTLY squeeze most (but
not all) of the water from the leaf. Discard the water. While Salvinorin is insoluble in
water, it is quite probable that a small amount was lost in this step, being pulled out along
with the resins and oils which it is soluble in. This is bearable when one considers that 12
grams or so of gooey resins were just removed from your final product. Place the leaves in
the glass baking dish and dry in the oven at 200 degrees, turning and fluffing the leaf every
couple of hours. When it is COMPLETELY dry, remove it and allow it to reach room temperature.
Verify at this time that the leaf is in fact dry. Remove the amount you will use for the final
product, crush it and set aside (5x=20g, 10x=10g, 15x=6.5g, 20x=5g). Grind the remaining leaf
in the coffee grinder or blender to a powder. NO PLASTICS should be used beyond this point as
the acetone will dissolve them. Place the powdered leaf into one of the mason jars and cover
it generously with acetone. Allow this to sit for 24 hours, stirring it a few times. If the
seal on your mason jar contains plastic(which it probably does), be sure not to allow the
acetone to contact it. One can also simply lay a piece of glass, wood, or metal on top of the
jar to prevent evaporation. After 24 hours, place the coffee filter in the strainer, and pour
the solution through the filter into the second jar. Squeeze the remaining acetone out of the
leaf powder. Return the leaf to the first jar, add more acetone and let it sit for 24 more
hours. Repeat the straining and add the second liquid to the first. Discard the leaf.
Pour the acetone solution into the glass baking dish and allow it to evaporate down to about
8 ounces of solution. Place the crushed leaf (which you had set aside 2 days ago) into the
small evaporating dish and pour the remaining acetone solution onto it, being sure to scrape
the sides of the baking dish. When this evaporates to the point that the leaf is just moist
and no liquid remains, add a few tablespoons of acetone to the leaf and use the leaf to wipe
off the resin which will have crusted to the side of your dish. As this is evaporating be
sure to stir it often to prevent more resin from collecting in any certain area. When this
is dry, you will be finished. Congratulations!
Our own assays of this extract process shows that it produces basically the same potency as
standardized extracts of similar strengths, but it should be remembered that, unlike
standardized extracts, the quality and potency of the end product is proportional to the
quality and potency of the starting material.
I would like here to strongly discourage against giving extracts stronger than 5x to people
who are inexperienced with salvia. Many people find the salvia experience quite disturbing
and unpleasant. It is far better to give a person a weaker extract than to have to physically
restrain them or piece them back together psychologically. Salvia also seems to have rather
variable effects between people, some people being very susceptable and some not. So it is
better to give a small amount at first in order to see how strongly it affects a person. I,
for example, am quite content to take two hits of 5x, while my wife must take 5-6 in order to
obtain the same effects. So, for her, a 15x extraction might be preferable, whereas it would
probably scare the shit out of me(which it has on many an occasion). Just try to remember that
if you are giving this to someone else, they are someone else. They are not you, and will not
necessarily react as you do. Be responsible, otherwise this ancient tool will become illegal
as so many others have.
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DMT & 5-MeO-DMT
---------------
DMT and 5-MeO-DMT are probably the most hallucinogenic drugs known to man. The great
thing about these drugs is the fact that alot of grass that grows outside (in america yes)
contains alot of DMT, or 5-MeO-DMT.
5-MeO-DMT is most commonly obtained by milking the venom from the Bufo Alvarius Toad.
DMT is most commonly extracted from plant matter.
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Milking 5-MeO-DMT from Toads
----------------------------
Half-a-gram to a gram or more of fresh venom can be collected from a large adult specimen of
B. alvarius. Half of this weight is water and evaporates upon drying. But, as must as fifteen
per cent of the dry weight is the predominant alkaloid, 5-MEO-DMT. In other words, one large
toad yielding one gram of fresh venom may equal as much as seventy-five milligrams of potent
hallucinogen, psychoactive in man at doses of three to five milligrams.
Fresh venom can easily be collected without harm to the toad. Use a flat glass plate or any
other smooth non-porous surface at least twelve inches square. Hold the toad in front of the
plate, which is fixed in a vertical position. In this manner, the venom can be collected on
the glass plate, free of dirt and liquid released when the toad is handled.
When you are ready to begin, hold the toad firmly with one hand and, with thumb and forefinger
of your other hand, squeeze near the base of the gland until the venom squirts out of the
pores and onto the glass plate. Use this method to systematically collect the venom from each
of the toad's granular glands: those on the forearm, those on the tibia and femur of the hind
leg and, of course, the parotoids on the neck. Each gland can be squeezed a second time for
an additional yield of venom if you allow the toad a one hour rest period. After this, the
glands are empty and require four to six weeks for regeneration.
The venom is viscous and milky-white in color when first squeezed from the glands. It begins
drying within minutes and acquires the color and texture of rubber cement. Scrape the venom
from the glass plate, dry it thoroughly, and store it in an airtight container until you are
ready to smoke it.
The venom from B. alvarius is extremely hallucinogen when vaporized by heat and taken into
the lungs in the form of smoke. An adequate dose for a normal adult of average size is a piece
of dried venom about the size of a paper match head. Shave it into thin slices with a razor
blade and put the pieces in a clean one-toke pipe fitted with a brass screen. Designate this
pipe strictly for smoking toad venom, as the accumulation of residue in the bowl and
condensation of vapors within the stem can yield an unintentional high with other smoking
materials.
Apply a suitable flame and smoke the contents of the bowl in one complete inhalation. Try to
hold the smoke in your lungs as long as possible as the effectiveness will depend largely on
the full dose being absorbed in one breath.
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Extracting DMT from Plants
--------------------------
Method 1)
You need acid "A" (Hydrochloride, vinegar or acetic acid), defatting solution "B" (Methylene
chloride, naphta, acetone), base "C" (Ammonium hydroxide, lye), kettle, filter or cheesecloth,
two containers, extraction funnel or turkey baster, pH meter or paper.
Find all this equipment, read and understand how the extraction works, and find a place you
can do it in. Harvest. If you have fresh grass, place it in freezer overnight. Next morning
take it out, let it soften just a bit and place it in blender or juicer or chopper and blow
it to pieces. If you want to be thorough, you can freeze it again after first chopping, and
chop again next morning. This is done to rupture the cells of the plant to free as much of
the alkaloids as possible.
Dried grass pulverizes (literally!) easily in blender. Dont open the lid immediately, or some
of your finest powder will float away. Note that drying will lower the alkaloid-content (as a
result of plants metabolism). Add small amounts of water to make the mush/powder pourable.
This is called Mixture. You can now begin.
1. Converting alkaloids to salts.
o Add acid ("A") to the Mixture to bring the pH down to 5. Add small amounts, check pH,
add small etc. etc. Alkaloids react with the acid and form salts. To ensure that large portion
of the alkaloids really do this, give the Mixture time and some heat(less than 50 C); don't
boil. Simmer it overnight with a lid on.
2. Removing unwanted oils.
o Place the Mixture in the funnel. Add 10% of the Mixtures volume of defatting solvent
("B"). Shake. Shake. Shake. Let the Mixture and the solvent separate; they will form two
different layers, and oils and fats will move to the solvent layer. Separate solvent and
Mixture layers, and throw away the solvent layer (if you don't have a real seperatory funnel,
then shake the Mixture and the solvent in a jar and use a turkey baster or an eye dropper to
siphon off the top layer). Now the Mixture no longer has solvent-soluable oils or fats.
3. Converting the alkaloid-salts to freebase-form.
o Add base ("C") to the Mixture to bring the pH up to 9.5. Add small amounts, check pH,
add small etc. etc. Alkaloid-salts react with the base and convert into freebase-form, making
them non-water soluable, but soluable into your solvent ("B").
4. Removing the alkaloids from the Mixture.
o This is similar to step 2. Add 10% of the Mixtures volume of solvent ("B"). Shake. Shake.
Shake hard. Wait until the solvent and Mixture form different layers. Separate solvent and
mixture. Put the solvent (which now holds some of the alkaloids) in some container to wait.
Repeat this step three more times, and wait a week each time before separating the solvent
and the mixture.
5. Preparing the alkaloids for smoking.
o Place the solvents in some shallow container and allow to evaporate. Do this in either
very well ventilated space or outside. No smoking or open fire near the solvent. This takes
several days. Solvent evaporates, leaving behind orange (color varies) substance, that may be
hard or gummy. Scrape this off the container. You now have extracted DMT, 5-MeO-DMT and some
other alkaloids from the plants.
6. Add some smokeable material if necessary.
Add some solvent or alcohol (spirits over 40% of total alcohol in volume) to this tar,
mix in some smokable material (oregano is fine), and let the liquid evaporate.
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-------------------
DMT & DET Synthesis
-------------------
DMT Synthesis
STEP I
Using an area of good ventilation or a fume hood, place a 1000 ml two hole roundbottom
flask in an ice bath using the setup in Figure II (you want a wobble stirrer in the top hole
of the flask, and a separatory dropping funnel into the side entry). Add 400 ml cold anhydrous
ether to the flask, in which 60 g indole is then dissolved, using the stirrer. To 100 ml
anhydrous ether in a separatory funnel add 50 g oxalyl chloride. Slowly drip this solution
into the vigorously stirred indole solution over a period of 10 to 15 minutes. Continue
stirring 10 minutes longer. Allow the precipitate to settle a few minutes and decant the
liquid. Add anhydrous ether and mix well. When satisfied as to the purity of the precipitate,
leave the golden precipitate in the flask for the next step, which must follow immediately.
Yield is approximately 100 g.
STEP II
Dimethylamine reacts readily with indole oxalyl chloride. Use about 400 ml ice cold
anhydrous ether in the same 2 neck 1000 ml RB flask used in Step I, with the precipitate in
it from Step I. Cool the ice bath further by using salt and ice. Estimate the weight of the
precipitate and use 100 g indole oxalyl chloride. For this weight of IOC use two entire 50g
containers of diethylamine since it will not keep if the container seal is broken. Cool the
amine in container much below 0 C and dissolve 1 part amine in 3 parts anhydrous cold ether.
Amine may be stored in this solution. For use, warm stock solution to room temperature and
use the appropriate aliquot. Set up the entire apparatus the same as when adding the oxalyl
chloride. Add the amine solution slowly to the IOC with vigorous stirring. Stir for 1/2 hour
after the addition is complete. Vacuum filter the precipitate, using ether as a wash. It is
better to slurry the ether water with the precipitate before filtering [method used].
Recrystallise from hot ethanol or from a 50-50 methanol-benzene mixture.
STEP III
Prepare apparatus as in Figure II (1-hole 1000 ml RB flask set in heating mantle on
magnetic stirrer with stir bar in flask, and condenser inserted into top of flask). Prepare
the indole glyoxyl amide by melting and casting into sticks if ether is to be used as a
solvent. Aluminium foil makes a good mould for casting pieces that will fit through the
condenser.Also a Soxhlet extractor may be used to add the crystals by slow solution into the
ether. Tetrahydrofluran, if available, dissolves IGA and the compound is added slowly in the
solution form [method used].
To a stirred mixture of 15 g LiAlH4 in 100 ml anhydrous ether (or THF [used]) slowly add
the sticks (or solution [used]) of IGA until 20 g have been added. Keep the rate of reaction
at a reasonable rate or boil-over may occur [do say!]. Stir and reflux for 90 minutes after
the addition is complete. Cool in an ice bath and begin to cautiously [do say!] hydrolyse with
chips of ice or a cold solution of methanol, added through the condenser. When there is no
further reaction, add a few ml extra water and allow to settle finally and decant the clear
liquid into an evaporating vessel. Filter the residue and wash several times with
ether-methanol or THF-methanol [used]. Evaporate the combined extracts and if necessary, seed
the heavy syrup with crystals of DMT. With no seed crystals the product may take days or even
weeks to crystallise [weeks]. This crude product is adequate for smoking [do say!]. In order
to purify DMT, begin after the LiAlH4 has been hydrolysed with methanol. Add 500 ml satd.
Na2SO4 solution, mix and filter. Wash with ether or THF and neutralise the filtrate with
0.1 N HCl. Extract with ether in a separatory funnel and neutralise the lower layer with
0.1 N NaOh, extracting this solution in turn with chloroform. The chloroform layer is dried
over anhydrous Na2SO4, concentrated, and from it DMT crystallises on addition of petroleum
ether. The mother liquor can be chromatographed on an alumina column using benzene-methanol
in a 99.8 to 0.2 ratio. [This last purification is quite difficult.]
DET Synthesis
STEP I
Same as for DMT
STEP II
Use 200g diethylamine per 100g IOC. Diethylamine is less volatile and poisonous than
dimethylamine, so cooling is not necessary, but the fumes are poisonous. Use the same
procedure otherwise. Diethyl derivative is easier to work with.
STEP III
Use same procedure and equipment. Use 22g indoleglycoxal diethylamide. The final product
is also easier to purify.
NOTES
STEP I
Absolutely anhydrous ether is essential. A container that has been opened previously is no
longer anhydrous. Where cooled reactions are necessary, remember that moisture is drawn to
cold objects, and cold reagents, when left open or poured, become quite wet. This applies to
the initial reaction on all three steps. A magnetic stirrer will not work for steps I and II.
The vigorous wobble-stirrer has been found adequate do deliver the violent stirring needed,
especially when several stirring balls are used in conjunction with the paddle-bar. Sparkless
motors must be used around ether.
Oxalyl chloride is very toxic and ventilation or a fume hood must be used.
Water vapor hydrolyses product I, producing a gummy dark-red mass. Proceed to Step II as
soon as possible.
STEP II
Refer to notes on anhydrous ether, stirrer, sparkless equipment, and ventilation in the notes
for Step I.
The color of the precipitate lightens somewhat as the amine is added to the compound I.
The water in the ether is used to dissolve all low-molecular-weight amines.
STEP III
The crystalline amide is difficult to add to the LiAlH4 mixture. A Soxhlet extractor may be
used to add the amide by placing it in-between the flask and condenser. Casting it into rods
or bars is one of the simplest methods. Tetrahydrofuran, if available, enables the indole
glycoxal amide to be dissolved and added as a solution; a procedure which is best and fastest
of all. LiAlH4 is a very dangerous inflammable compound, especially so when in ether solution.
The ether must be absolutely anhydrous or a violent effervescence occurs, destroying the
LiAlH4 and creating a fire hazard. Contact of LiAlH4-ether solution with any water, damp
materials, or even chemically bound water such as cellulose causes spontaneous combustion. A
safety shield made from auto windshield material is a must when working with LiAlH4 in any
form. Handling LiAlH4 is done wearing rubber gloves in a dry or inert atmosphere with a
minimum of friction involved. Hydrolysis of the complex is dangerous and should be done slowly
and cautiously, using an ice-bath to cool the mixture.
Difficulty in producing crystals the first time should cause no concern since many organics
need seed crystals to crystallize. The syrup may be used for some purposes but be sure to save
some seed crystals if you should happen to get some.
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--------
KETAMINE
--------
Ketamine (Special K) is a drug that is most commonly used on Animals as a Local
Anasthetic. Usually whenever a dog is going to get it's tail docked (cut off), they give the
dog Ketamine inorder to keep the pain away..
Ketamine also acts as a Local Anasthetic in humans. I have heard stories about people
going swimming while on Ketamine, and since the water is so comfortable, they just forget to
breath (that's just what I have heard, it may be a myth).
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---------------------------------
Ketamine Manufacture from Scratch
---------------------------------
1. o-chlorobenzoic acid.
Anthranilic acid 13,7g
HClconc. (d=1,19)
NaNO2 8g
CuCl 10g
13,7g anthranilic acid is stirred in a glass beaker in 40mls water, 28mls HCl and 20g ice.
With constant stirring and cooling there's added 8g NaNO2 in 40mls water. Thus obtained clear
solution of diazonium salt is very slowly added with stirring into a soln. of 10g CuCl in 25g
HCl conc. A vigorous evolution of nitrogen is observed.
When the rxn ends, the ppt is filtered, washed with cold water and reprecipitated from aq.
Na2CO3. The product represents fine crystals and melts at 140-141 C.
O-bromobenzoic acid can bee obtained in an analogous manner, substituting CuCl for CuBr.
2. o-chlorobenzonitrile.
Preparation A
(RCOO)2Zn + Pb(CNS)2 = 2RCN + ZnS + PbS + 2CO2
The best results are obtained when a zinc salt is employed instead of free acid. This rxn is
unsuitable for amino-, nitro- and oxy- acids, but can bee used for bromo- and chlorobenzoic
acids.
To a hot soln of 50g NaOH in 400mls water there's added 195g o-chlorobenzoic acid. Carefully
neutralize with NH3 or NaHCO3 and add with heating 105g (~5% excess) ZnSO4 in 400mls water.
The precipitated salt is dried for prolonged time at 200 C and mixed intimately with 205g
Pb(SCN)2. The mixture is coffeeground and dried at 120-140 C for a prolonged time, then
heated on open flame - the mixture melts and gases are evolved.
Distilled nitrile is treated with NH4OH, steam-distilled and salted out. Yield 137g (80%),
mp=43-46 C, bp=232 C. The rxn usually takes place within 30-60 mins, but the duration of
dryings makes the method quite time-consuming.
Preparation B.
This one doesnt require a prolonged drying. Sulfaminic acid is dirt cheap and can bee
acquired without causing any suspicion.
o-bromo-benzonitrile.
50g o-Br-benzamide and 35g (25g=theory) sulfaminic(sulfamic) acid is thoroughly mixed and
heated in a Wurtz flask. At 250-255 C distillation begins, which is over at 285-295 C (takes
approx. 1,5-2 hrs). The collected product is redistilled, yield 36g (80% of theory).
mp = 53-57o, bp = 251-253o
As I found recently, this can bee simplified yet more, by forming benzamides in situ from
the corresponding acid and urea..but since this is a very good route to substd benzaldehydes
from benzoic acids, Ill post it later separately.
3.Cyclopentanone.
100g adipinic(adipic) acid and 10g Ba(OH)2 is intimately mixed and placed into a flask with
a thermometer. The rxn is heated to 280 C, the mixture initially melts and then the
distillation takes place, which lasts about 1-2 hrs. The hot distillate is saturated with
NaCl, the upper layer is decanted and distilled, collecting the fraction boiling at
128-130 C. Dry with MgSO4.
Yield 51g (89% of theory).
Notes:
- Ca(OH)2 may bee substituted for Ba(OH)2 without much loss in the yield.
- if one is to use pre-made Ca or Ba adipinate, no temp control is necessary.
4. Aluminium isopropoxide.
Bp = 130-140C at 7mmHg; mp = 118C
Into a 250ml RBF equipped with an efficient reflux condenser there's added 6g Al foil, 70mls
(51mls in theory) abs. IPA (commercial reagent grade IPA was used without any drying) and
0,1g HgSO4. The mixture is heated.
In the beginning of boiling 0,5mls CCl4 (CAREFUL! Extremely toxic!) and heating continued
until H2 evolution starts, when it is stopped, sometimes even cooling's needed. After the rxn
subsides, heating is continued until almost full dissolution of Al (5-7 hrs). The obtained
solution is immediately used as is in the following preparation.
5. Cyclopentanol.
Into a 250ml RBF equipped with a 15cm Vigreux column and distilling condenser there's added
53mls (50g) cyclopentanone in 50mls IPA and the soln from the previous prep'n, which contains
about 40g Al isopropoxide. The rxn is gently heated, which causes acetone with some water to
distill off. The distillation is ended when the temp of the vapors rises to ~85 C.
The ppt inside the flask is carefully decomposed with 50% H2SO4 until acidic and saturated
with NaCl. The upper layer is decanted and distilled, collecting the fraction boiling at
137-140 C. Drying with MgSO4.
Yield 47g (94%)
6. Cyclopentylbromide.
In a flask theres mixed 47mls (45g) cyclopentanol and 60mls (90g) 48% aq. HBr. 10g NaSO4 is
added. The rxn is left for 24hrs with vigorous stirring. After that its diluted with 200mls
water and the lower organic phase is separated and washed with water twice. Distill,
collecting the fraction between 137-138 C. Dryed with MgSO4.
Yield = 58g (74%)
7. Cyclopentyl magnesium bromide.
Into a 250mls three-necked flask equipped with a reflux condenser, addition funnel and inert
gas inlet theres placed 50mls THF (kept over KOH, prior to the rxn 150mls refluxed over 30g
CaO for 6hrs and distilled). 9g of fine Mg turnings is added followed by some iodine crystals.
The apparatus is flushed with argon and a gentle stream of gas is left flowing in. Magnetic
stirring is commenced. The mixture instantly beecomes cloudy from MgI. From the addition
funnel theres dripped 55g (40mls) cyclopentyl bromide in 100mls THF so that the soln boils
smoothly. The rxn is usually over in an hour, it is accompanied by precipitation of a white
jelly-like mass, and at the bottom there maybee left some unreacted Mg as a dark-grey powder.
Usage of THF instead of ether is preferred since the rxn in it proceeds better and faster
(THF is a more specific solvent for Grignards) , the yield is better as well. Beesides, THF
can bee dried with CaO, while for ether,sodium metal is usually employed.
Notes on the possible usage of Zn-organics:
".. Nitriles are not bad as electrophiles, so it is possible that despite smaller reactivity
of ZnR2 compounds, they would work equally well here - esp. if the rxn conditions are made
harsher (gentle reflux instead of RT?).
What one CAN say for sure-is that the rxn with ZnR2 will go just fine if one is to use
o-chlorobenzoyl chloride instead of benzonitrile. Haloanhydrides generally are the best
species for coupling with metalloorganics.
Bis-dicyclopentyl zinc is conveniently made from the corresponding bromide, no need to make
iodide here. And o-chlorobenzoyl chloride can bee easily prepared from o-chlorobenzoic acid
(obtained in Step 1) and PCl5 or some such."
8. (O-chlorophenyl)-cyclopentylketone.
To the thus obtained Grignard soln theres added 48g o-chlorobenzonitrile and the mixture is
stirred for 3 days at RT. It is then poured into a mixture of ice/NH4Cl, with addition of
some conc. aq. NH3 and left at ambient temp until all ice melts. The ketone partially floats,
partially goes to the bottom. Its extracted with benzene.
The yields fluctuate, but rarely drop beelow 55%.
9. alpha-bromo-(o-chlorophenyl)-cyclopentyl ketone.
40g ketone is dissolved in 70mls CCl4 and with cooling in snow it is added into a soln of
48g dioxane dibromide in 50mls dioxane, and stirred at RT for 30mins. Then 30mls water are
added and the soln is washed with NaHCO3 aq. until neutral. This may lead to some preciptation
of the bromoketone, which stays in CCl4. The solvent is removed, giving 47g (85%) of the
bromoketone.
10. (1-hydroxy-cyclopentyl)-(o-chlorophenyl)-N-methylketimine.
45g of the above bromoketone is dissolved in 50mls benzene, add therein 50mls (17g(=23mls)
is required for neutralization of HBr, but a 2x excess is used). The soln is then saturated
with 5g methylamine, obtained by dripping a saturated soln of 15g MeNH2*HCl onto 10g NaOH,
dried thru NaOH. The rxn is left for 1 day and the solvents are removed under aspirator
vacuum, giving 30g (80%) of methylketimine.
11. Ketamine.
10g of methylketimine is dissolved in 100mls undecane and boiled at 195 C for 3-4hrs.
Ketamine is extracted with 20% HCl. Acidic extract is basified and extracted with DCM.
Solvent is removed giving the product as an oil that quickly crystallizes. It can bee purified
by recrystallization from pentane/ether or hexane/ether.
The yields are close to quantitative.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
Ketamine Synthesis
------------------
1-Hydroxycyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone N-methylimine
To the grignard reagent prepared from 119.0 g of cyclopentyl bromide and 19.4 g of magnesium
is added 55.2 g of o-chlorobenzonitrile. The reaction mixture is stirred for three days and
thereafter hydrolyzed in the usual manner. From the hydrolysis there is obtained
o-chlorophenylcyclopentylketone, bp 96-97C (0.3 mmHg). To 21.0 g of the ketone is added
10.0 g of bromine in 80 ml of CCl4. 1-bromocyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone, bp 111-114C
(0.1 mmHg) is isolated in the usual manner. Since it is unstable, it must be used immediately.
The bromoketone (29.0g) is dissolved in 50 ml of liquid methylamine freebase. After one hour,
the excess liquid methylamine is allowed to evaporate. The organic residue is dissolved in
pentane, and upon evaporation of the solvent, 1-hydroxy-cyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone
N-methylimine is isolated, mp 62C.
2-Methylamino-2-(o-chlorophenyl)-cyclohexanone (Ketamine)
1-hydroxycyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone N-methylimine (2.0 g) is dissolved in 15 ml of
decalin and refluxed for 2.5 h. After evaporation of the decalin under reduced pressure, the
residue is extracted with dilute hydrochloric acid, the solution treated with decolorizing
charcoal, and the resulting acidic solution is made basic. The liberated product,
2-methylamino-2-(o-chlorophenyl)-cyclohexanone (Ketamine), after recrystallization from
pentane-ether, has a mp of 92-93C. The hydrochloride has a mp of 262-263C.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
DXM
---
DXM is probably the most abused over the counter drug that is sold. Kids all over the
world are going to their local store, and stealing DXM containing pills, and eating them by
the dozen to get high, and hallucinate. It is much smarter to extract the DXM out of these
pills inorder to assure you that you are not ingesting different sorts of drugs that *may*
kill you, or make you very sick
The following will explain to you in detail how to extract DXM from over the counter
pills, that way you can get as high as you want without worrying. Oh, and by the way, DXM is
100% Legal in the United States!
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------------------------
DXM Coricidin Extraction
------------------------
I - Overview:
The procedure uses a double wash-filtration, followed by a slow boil to evaporate and purify
the final product. Justification for this methodology is in parts IV and V.
II - Materials:
- 16 Coricidin Cough and Cold pills
- Filtration device; a funnel and jar will work- the larger the funnel,
the better
- Filter Papers which fit the funnel, the larger the better
- Stirring rod
- 750mL Flask (or Pyrex bowl)
- 500mL (or heat-safe Pyrex bowl)
- Thermometer accurate to 1 degree Celsius
- Hot Plate or heating device (an electric stove will work)
- Straight Razor Blade
- Boiling Flask Setup (described below)
- Gelcaps or Orange Juice for administration after the Procedure
Setting up your Boiling Flask Apparatus:
In order to regulate the temperature of the boiling water, a special setup will be used to
slow the speed at which the temperature raises. As with melting chocolate, simply set a
half-filled bowl of waterlarger than your 500mL flask on the heating device. Place your 500mL
flask into this water, making sure that the water level in the larger bowl isn't high enough
to cause problems. This will allow for slow boiling, so that the DXM will crystallize
properly. Since this slows the heating, it will also be easier to monitor and regulate the
temperature, ensuring that the heat will not reach a harmful level.
III - Methodology:
1. Remove pill coating, as described by lucidity ["I wet each pill and rubbed as much of the
red coating off as I could without losing any of the inside"]
2. Crush pills to a fine powder
3. Add powder to 600mL water (at 10C) using the 750mL flask, stir
4. Let mixture settle for 60-90 seconds, stir again (repeat this step two more times, for a
total of 4 stirrings)
5. Let mixture settle for ~3 minutes
6. Decant most of water into filtration device, leaving 100~200mL water and most of the
residue in the flask.
7. After the water filters through, remove the filter paper and set it aside. Put a new filter
paper into the filtration device.
8. Filter remainder of mixture. This may take a while (up to 2 hours) depending on what size
filter you use.
9. After the filtering is done, remove and set aside this filter paper, too.
10. Dispose of the filtrate (water) and wash your 750mL flask.
11. Soak the used filter papers (with residue) in 600mL water (at 25C) using the 750mL
flask again, stir until the residue precipitates and rests at the botom of the flask.
12. Remove the filter papers from the flask and dispose of them. Stir, and let settle.
13. Decant most of water into filtration device, leaving 100~200mL water and most of the
residue in the flask.
14. After the water filters through, remove the filter paper and set it aside. Put a new
filter paper into the filtration device.
15. Filter remainder of mixture. Again, this may take up to 2 hours depending on your filter
size.
16. After the filtering is done, remove and set aside this filter paper.
17. Dispose of filtrate (water)
18. Soak the second set of used filter papers (with residue) in 300mL water (at ~65C)
using your 500mL flask
19. Stir until residue precipitates to bottom of flask. Remove and dispose of filter papers.
20. Stir, and heat slowly (do not use boiling stones, as this will impede crystal formation in
step 21) in the boiling flask setup discussed earlier. Using the thermometer, slowly bring
the water to 105 C. Continue stirring until the water boils. Do NOT allow the
temperature to exceed 105 C. This may harm the DXM.
21. As the water boils off, DXM HBr will crystallize at the bottom of the flask. It should be
pink to light brown to white in color, and have either an amorphous or small rectangular
(.2cm x .1cm) lattice.
22. Using the razor, scrape the crystals from the bottom of the flask. This is your final
product.
IV - The Logic:
Boiling cannot be used to extract the DXM after the first dissolution, as Chlorpheniramine
is present in this water. Thus, the second dissolution-filtration was added, as a washing
step, to remove any of the antihistamine that may have remained following the first
filtration. The second wash and filtration having been completed, it is now relatively safe
to boil off the water, leaving pure DXM crystals. The special boiling apparatus is used to
ensure that the heating takes place at the correct rate. The main problem with the initially
suggested Coricidin extraction was the difficulty in removing the DXM residue from the filter
paper- coffee filter. This procedure solves that, and also gives a greater yield of DXM while
lowering the amount of Chlorpheniramine in the final product.
V - Other Notes:
The varying temperatures of the water used have a reason. The first amount of water is at
10C, about the temperature initially suggested by Delysid Dreamer. This will allow for
near-full removal of Chlorpheniramine while only dissolving ~2% of the DXM. The second amount
is at 25C, room temperature, to ensure complete dissolution of the intended solute. The third
batch is at around 65C, and since this batch will be evaporated and not filtered, there is no
reason to worry about dissolution loss of DXM. It is this high to aid in the slow boiling of
the water- boiling from 25C would be more time-consuming and is unnecessary.
If you desire to test the product for Chlorpheniramine Maleate, do so AFTER you have completed
step 19. Thoric and I are working on a comparative-pH testing method [proven unlikely to work
as of today]. Other suggestions are really fucking welcome.
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--------------------------------------
Simplified Acid/Base Extraction of DXM
--------------------------------------
Materials needed:
Clear Ammonia (Non-Sudsy)
Naptha (Ronsonol, Zippo, or Red Devil Cigarette Lighter Fluid)
Gallon-size Ziploc Baggies
Cough Syrup containing only DXM or DXM/Guafenisin
Scissors
Pin or needle
A 2-liter jug or gallon jug with lid
Microwaveable bowl or glass pan for stove-boiling
Lemon Juice (fresh squeezed, or ReaLemon, or one of those plastic lemons you find in the
produce section)or Countrytime lemonade mix with SUGAR, not aspartame.
Toothbrush and toothpaste
Procedure:
Determine how much Cough Syrup to buy. Assume you will lose about 10% of the DXM. Wal-Mart
sells 8oz Equate TussinDM for $2.49, which is the best deal I've found. They also sell
everything else you need, so its the ideal place to obtain materials. There are 475mg of DXM
in one 8oz bottle of TussinDM.
Do not extract more DXM than you will be taking that day unless you want to trip on DXO. The
product will gradually turn into DXO if left overnight or for a period of many hours. You
might like the DXO trip, but I dont.
Pour cough syrup into your gallon jug or 2-liter. Add an equal ammount of ammonia. Shake for
30 seconds. Add Naptha equivalent to about 10% of the volume of cough syrup/ammonia. These
measurements dont have to be exact, the only thing I would advise is not to use too much
ammonia (no more than an equal amount to the cough syrup) if you are using a syrup with
guafenisin. An excess of ammonia will turn the guafenisin into a slightly oily layer, which
will take a few hours to separate, rather than a few minutes. It sucks when this happens.
Shake your ammonia/naptha/DXM for at least 4-5 minutes. Shaking it longer wont hurt. Each
molecule of DXM must touch ammonia, then naptha, in order to be extracted. Each that doesnt
will be lost.
Pour the mixture into a ziploc baggie and hang it up on a nail by one of the top corners.
You will see your mixture begin to separate and should be fully separated in just a couple
of minutes. Ammonia/Guafenisin/coloring will be on bottom, a clear layer of naptha containing
your DXM freebase on top. You should see a perfectly clear line of separation without bubbles.
If there is a bubbly layer in the middle after 5 minutes, youve gotten oily guafenisin and
youll just have to wait it out. Ive noticed this happening more with certain brands of
ammonia, but the Wal-Mart Equate brand ammonia always works great for me.
Rinse out your shaker jug very well, youre going to need it again in a minute.
When you have a clear separation, you're going to snip a SMALL hole in the bottom corner of
the baggie, and drain out all the red stuff on the bottom. Be sure to do this in a
well-ventilated area, outside is best. Otherwise go into a bathroom and drain it down the
sink, holding the baggie close to the drain, with the tap running. As you see the naptha/DXM
layer getting close to the hole, get your jug ready. Let a tiny bit of the naptha out the
hole, to be SURE youre not getting any ammonia in your final product, then drain the rest
into your jug.
If you are using a colored 2-liter bottle, Id suggest draining the naptha into a clear or
white bowl first. Inspect it for any reddish bubbles. If youre using a gallon water jug,
youll be able to spot them in the jug. If you see any, it means you got ammonia in your
product. AMMONIA IS TOXIC. You must remove it before proceeding with the next step. Do this
by pouring your naptha into another baggie, hold by a top corner. Youll see the red drops
settle to the bottom corner. Prick the corner with a pin and let the ammonia drop out. Then
return the product to your cleanly rinsed jug.
At this point you can either evaporate the naptha using a blowdryer, in a glass pan or bowl
to produce DXM freebase powder, or proceed with the instructions below to produce DXM citrate,
which I recommend over the freebase form. Neither form contains bromide, making both a much
healthier form of DXM than DXM HBR.

Add an amount of lemon juice equal to the ammount of naptha, or 3 oz, whichever is more. If
you are using freshly squeezed, strain the pulp. Shake the lemon juice/naptha for 5 minutes
or so. Pour into a ziploc baggie. Hang by a corner. This will take a while to separate, at
least an hour.**
**Alternative** Use countrytime lemonade mix, the kind WITH sugar, not aspartame. The first
3 ingredients will be sugar, fructose, citric acid. This method works fine, and separates
instantly, cutting your extraction time from over an hour to about 20 minutes. Use about 3
tablespoons of mix to 4 oz of water, a much stronger mixture than if you were actually making
lemonade to drink. The problem with this method is that if you dont use a strong enough
mixture, you will recover alot less DXM than with lemon juice. Dont worry about it being too
strong to drink. It tastes pretty bad, but its actually alot better than the lemon juice
product. Either way, you're only drinking a couple of ounces, so it beats chugging syrup
anyday. Be sure not to get the Countrytime with aspartame. If you are not used to consuming
aspartame, using this much at once may cause a nasty headache, which may ruin your trip. The
headache has been known to last for 2-3 days.
When your product has separated, your DXM is now in the bottom layer, snip the corner of the
baggie and allow your product to drain into a microwave safe bowl or glass pan for boiling on
the stove. Don't lose too much product worrying about the naptha layer getting into it, try
not to get any naptha, but if you end up with a drop or two in there don't worry. When you
boil your final product, the naptha will immediately rise to the top and evaporate cleanly.
Boil the lemon juice/DXM for about 5 minutes, in the microwave or on the stovetop. Be careful
microwaving, as the product tends to boil up and over like noodles on a stove do. Make sure
your bowl is large enough that you dont lose half your lemon juice over the side. You'll be
extremely pissed if this happens. I suggest a bowl larger then your normal sized cereal bowl,
or a very tall microwaveable glass.

Chill the lemon juice, theres less of a gag reflex that way. Have toothbrush and toothpaste
handy, this stuff tastes like ass. Effects kick in in about 30 minutes, peak around 2-2.5
hours. Some feel this is a far cleaner and more spiritual trip than using syrup or powder.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
Converting DXM into DXO
-----------------------
Theory:
Where do I start on this one? The theory behind the whole situation is converting the
acid-salt Dextromethorphan HydroChloride (or HydroBromide) to Dextorphan HCl (or HBr) (for
the sake of space, I will just use HCl as the acid from now on.). Its really much more
complicated in theory than in practice. DXM looks a little something like this:
3-methoxy-17-methyl-(9alpha,13alpha,14alpha)-morphinan (interesting note: "morphinan" look
familar? yep its good ole mr. morphine. DXM is actually a morphine analog.)
Anyways, the removal of the 17-methyl group will give you the much simpler molecule of DXO.
Whenever I first saw the DXM molecule i thought that this simple synthesis would be possible.
I wasn't sure whether a strong acid would destory the molecule completely or just remove the
methyl group. Complicated acid bonds are the cause of this, and I would explain these, but
they are way over my head.
Summing it all up: Basically, using a strong acid such as HCl (hydrogen chloride) will remove
the 17-methyl group, causing the DXM to become DXO.
Practice:
The applied chemistry of it all is easy if you have access to some sort of laboratory.
Really, all you need is oven safe, acid resistant glassware. Pretty much any Pyrex glassware
that you can buy at the grocery store (yes, the glass measuring cups) are acid-resistant,
although they might not be oven proof. You'll have to come up with your own answer on this
one. Seeing as I am in the gifted program, a straight A student, and I have three lab sciences
this year (organic chem 2, AP chem 4, Physics 3), all i had to do was say that i needed a
little home enrichment and boom, i have a chemistry set and an account with Frey scientific
to order whatever the hell kinda chemicals i need. So basically I have a sweet little set up
(sorry to brag, but I am proud). Ok, I am pretty sure that you will be able to come up with
this stuff so I will just continue.
Equipment:
A nice little chem set with test tubes, a graduated cylinder, and a balance. it'd be nice to
have a vacuum hand pump too.
Procedure:
Using Pure USP grade powder
Supplies:
Test Tube
6M HCl (Hydrochloric Acid)
2 acid resistant rubber stoppers (1 with a hole for vacuum pump mating)
vacuum hand pump
Conditions:
Temperature - ~25 deg C (room temp)
Pressure - ~1 atm
Steps:
Pour 1 gram of USP grade DXM HBr powder into a test tube.
Using 6M HCl, pour 2 ml SLOWLY down into the test-tube with the powder in it.
let sit for 2 min, then put the stopper on and proceed to shake vigorously.
after 5 min of shaking, stop, switch stoppers, mate the vacuum pump and the stopper, then
place the test tube under vacuum, and let sit until ALL of the liquid is gone.
Product:
Excess HCl will evaporate out, leaving mostly Dextrorphan HBr (and some Dextorphan HCl) and
just a little Dextromethorphan HBr. The ratio might be as much as 1:10,000 or as little as
1:1,000,000. If the reduction is carried out properly, there should not be any DXM HBr left.
The methyl group reaction will knock that H right out of HCl and HBr (which means hydrogen
gas), possible leaving trace amounts of the halides methyl bromide and methyl chloride. As in
any Alkyl reaction like this, the products are not too good for you to be taken in excess,
but for there to actually be enough to hurt you, you would have to consume well over 10 grams,
which would kill you anyways. So by using a small amount of your finished product, you can
get a gauge on how much is enough, although I strictly advise against using any drug named
here. Just want to let you know that this paper is written strictly for research purposes and
for education. If all your reagents are pure, your product should be of very high quality.
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----------
CONCLUSION
----------
There you have it. You now have alot of the basic knowledge involved with making
some illegal (or legal) drugs. Go down to your basement, and set up a lab! You know you want
to.
You will notice that one of the things that I did not put here is where to buy
chemicals, where to buy laboratory glass, etc. Well, I'm sorry, but that's something that
you are going to have to do yourself. I have many Chemical, and Lab Glass sources, but I
cannot risk giving you that information since these companies would be almost instantly hit
up for chemicals that are watched. Whenever there are too many suspicious purchases, the
company usually begins going through screening processes, that way they can keep track of
who is buying these precursor chemicals.
Remember that one can easily build a makeshift Lab by going to the local supermarket,
and buying different types of Pyrex Glassware, etc. A hotplate, thermometer, etc. Everyone who
builds a lab always has to remember that almost everything is measured in ML, so Pyrex Cups are
always a good thing for you to have.
Probably the greatest thing about having all this knowledge is the fact that you
now have the know-how to produce many drugs. If your drug lab is for personal use, then
at least you can assure yourself how pure your product is, etc. If your drug lab is for
manufacturing drugs to sell, well then I guess you'll be a rich person. Remember always
to keep your mouth shut about your lab. Telling people about your lab will get you busted
by the cops, and that is the last thing that you ever want.
Remember to use common sense when it comes to the safety aspects of mixing
chemicals. Always keep a bucket of water nearby, and a Bucket of Sand.
Keep an eye out for more text files that I am writing. The next text file will
be mainly about administering certain drugs. For example: How to shoot heroin, how to
freebase cocaine, etc.
So, there you go. Produce as much dope as you want, and sell it to your friends,
become a rich dope dealer.
ZERO,
zerotextspy@yahoo.com