Key West, #Florida features beautiful beaches and a relaxing atmosphere that can't be achieved anywhere else. This AAA guide features popular local destinations like the Ernest Hemingway House and Museum where you can see Mr. Hemingway's six-toed cats. After your day at the Hemingway house you can grab a bite to eat at Blue Heaven or Half Shell Raw Bar,
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AAA Destination Guide: Florida Keys includes trip-planning information
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Deep-sea fishing. Quaint bed-and-breakfasts in Victorian cottages. Rocky
beaches. Amiable residents. Sounds like a perfect New England setting,
doesn’t it? Guess again. This is the Florida Keys, and the very thought
conjures up images of knockout sunsets, tangy Key lime pie, water
sports, relaxation, good times—and Ernest Hemingway, arguably the
most famous person associated with Key West.
Henry Flagler, a railroad developer and magnate, is perhaps less well-
known, but he was immeasurably more instrumental to the future of the
Keys. Flagler built the first railroad to Key West in the early 1900s,
opening up the Keys to development and tourism. The railroad was
destroyed by a hurricane in 1935, but the remaining infrastructure was
used to construct the Overseas Highway, which allows easy access to
the islands.
Today the Florida Keys—including Big Pine Key, Dry Tortugas National
Park, Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon, and Sugarloaf Key—
are the epitome of easy living. You’ll find plenty to do and see: art and
history museums, national parks, miniature deer, Florida kitsch, kayaks
and catamarans, year-round fishing tournaments, festivals, open-air pubs
and restaurants featuring fish caught the same day.
There’s so much to do in the Keys, it’s no wonder the locals—artists,
writers, parrotheads, expatriates—exhibit such an obvious zest for life.
Perhaps it’s all that Key lime pie.
Essentials
Put yourself in a Florida Keys state of mind with a leisurely drive on the
113-mile Overseas Highway, passing ultramarine expanses of sea,
clusters of mangrove trees and scrubland, candy-colored plastic palm
trees, tikis and giant seashells.
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park in Key Largo is just one of many
Keys attractions holding allure for both anglers and fans of scuba diving,
snorkeling, kayaking and canoeing.
Tool around Key West on the open-air cars of the Conch Tour Train, and
learn about local legends, lore and landmarks.
Introduce yourself to the sleepy descendants of Hemingway’s six-toed
cats while learning about one of the greatest American authors at the
Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum.
Enter the greenhouse at the Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory
and find yourself in a completely different world. More than 50 species of
butterflies flutter from one tropical flower to another; if you’re lucky, one
will land on your shoulder.
Peaceful daytime and sunset cruises with The Liberty Fleet of Tall Ships
feature complementary drinks and an attentive crew aboard a replica
19th-century schooner. What’s not to love?
Leave the car at the hotel and do the Duval Crawl. No, it’s not a dance—
it’s the local term for barhopping along Duval Street, Key West’s main
drag. Be sure to visit Sloppy Joe’s and Capt. Tony’s Saloon
(Hemingway’s favorite haunt).
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It’s de rigueur to have your picture taken at the southernmost point in the
continental United States, marked by a red, black and yellow concrete
buoy at the intersection of Whitehead and South streets.
You can’t leave the Keys without sampling some scrumptious Key lime
pie. Have a contest with your companions and try the recipes from
several restaurants; every eatery in the Keys claims to have the best.
Street performers, including jugglers and cats jumping through flaming
hoops, entertain daily at Mallory Square off Duval Street; raspberry and
peach sorbet sunsets spill across the sky for the big finish. Sometimes
the best things in life are free.
Essentials Map
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1. John Pennekamp
Coral Reef State Park
US 1, Milepost 102.5
Key Largo, FL 33037
Phone: (305) 451-1202
2. Key Largo
3. Key West
4. Conch Tour Train
501 Front St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-5161
5. Ernest Hemingway
Home and Museum
907 Whitehead St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-1136
6. Key West Butterfly
& Nature Conservatory
1316 Duval St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 296-2988
7. Discovery Undersea Tours
251 Margaret St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (800) 262-0099
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Restaurants
Housed in a 1930s “conch house†from a rustic fishing camp, Ballyhoo’s
Historic Seafood Grille in Key Largo has retained its comfortable décor,
down to the wood-beamed ceilings. The friendly staff will help narrow
down your choices on an extensive list of fresh seafood from the Atlantic
Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. You can’t go wrong with the catch of the
day—served 13 ways—or all-you-can-eat stone crab. Yummy pretzel rolls
are a special touch, and the wine list has choices to complement every
selection.
Rise and shine extra early for breakfast at the
Islamorada Restaurant & Bakery/Bob’s Bunz. The
lines are long but worth the wait, especially when
you sink your teeth into the incredible sticky buns
and pecan rolls created by talented pastry chef
Robert Spencer. Egg dishes and fluffy pancakes
are equally tempting. Lunch also is available at this
diner-style family restaurant.
Moor your yacht to the dock in front of the Islamorada Fish Company.
This open-air restaurant serves nothing but the freshest fish, assured by
daily deliveries to the fish market next door. Try the stone crab claws,
Florida lobster and fried fish sandwiches; the burgers and chicken dishes
also are good. Sit dockside for an amazing view of the bay—especially
striking when the sun slowly sinks below the horizon each evening.
Barracuda Grill isn’t your typical seafood shack with beer signs and
fishing nets on the wall. Minimalist yet cozy décor and innovative meal
presentations set this Marathon restaurant apart. You’ll relish the “tipsy
olives†appetizer, marinated in a secret recipe. The seafood dishes are
savory, and the rack of lamb or aged Angus beef are a refreshing change
of pace. The wine list leans toward California wineries.
Restaurants Map
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1. Ballyhoo's Historic
Seafood Grille
MM 97.8
Key Largo, FL 33037
Phone: (305) 852-0822
2. Islamorada Restaurant &
Bakery/Bob's Bunz
81620 Overseas Hwy
Islamorada, FL 33036
Phone: (305) 664-8363
3. Islamorada Fish Company
81532 Overseas Hwy
Islamorada, FL 33036
Phone: (305) 664-9271
4. Barracuda Grill
4290 Overseas Hwy
Marathon, FL 33050
Phone: (305) 743-3314
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Restaurants Map
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Elegant and understated Antonia’s Restaurant in Key West blends
traditional Italian cuisine with a modern Mediterranean influence. Chef
Michael Mosi makes regular forays to Tuscany to unearth new recipes;
the payoff is homemade pasta and praiseworthy sauces combined with
seafood, chicken, veal and beef. During the day, you can watch the chef
roll out fresh pasta in the front window. The wine list comprises Italian
and American labels; a full bar also is available.
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5. Antonia's Restaurant
615 Duval St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-6565
6. Blue Heaven
729 Thomas St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 296-8666
7. Cafe Marquesa
600 Fleming St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 292-1244
8. Conch Republic
Seafood Company
631 Greene St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-4403
9. El Siboney
900 Catherine St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 296-4184
10. Half Shell Raw Bar
231 Margaret St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-7496
11. Latitudes Beach Cafe
245 Front St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 292-5394
12. Pepe's Cafe
806 Caroline St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-7192
13. Pisces Seafood Restaurant
1007 Simonton St
Key West, FL 33040-6552
Phone: (305) 294-7100
Roosters roam the courtyard of Key West favorite Blue Heaven, but it’s
the food that makes this charming restaurant so memorable. Take your
place in line for tasty breakfasts including made-from-scratch “Richard’s
Very Good Pancakes†and a variety of Benedicts served with lime
hollandaise. Fresh herbs and spices lend high flavor to equally
scrumptious lunch and dinner items with a Caribbean influence, such as
Jamaican jerk chicken. Vegetarians will savor such dishes as carrot and
curry soup and tofu stir-fry.
One of the finest places to eat in Key West, Cafe Marquesa is worth the
splurge. Chef Susan Ferry serves up a creative blend of American, Asian
and Caribbean cuisine at this cozy 50-seat restaurant adjoining The
Marquesa Hotel. The menu changes seasonally, with such choices as
Destination Guide: Florida KeysÂ
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macadamia-crusted yellowtail snapper with mango vanilla butter and
grilled prosciutto-wrapped Black Angus filet. The Key lime Napoleon is a
luscious twist on the ubiquitous pie.
Like most Key West restaurants, the fish is fresh and the servers are
friendly at Conch Republic Seafood Company. Large aquariums, nautical
décor and local musicians playing cover songs complete the casual
setting on the marina. The Floridian and Caribbean cuisine features such
favorites as Key West shrimp, grilled dolphin and tuna, conch chowder
and fritters and blue-crab cakes. Bold diners may indulge in the raw bar
and a rum bar with more than 80 varieties.
For serious Cuban cuisine, make a trip to El Siboney. Off the beaten path
in Key West, the family-friendly restaurant is a favorite among local Latin
Americans. Expect a wait for such Cuban favorites as ropa vieja, arroz
con pollo, picadillo, fried plantains and award-winning Cuban
sandwiches. Artwork on the walls pays tribute to the restaurant’s
namesake, a mythical Caribbean Indian chief.
At Key West’s dockside Half Shell Raw Bar, you might be overdressed if
you’re wearing long pants. Breathe in the salty air and watch boats slowly
rock in the marina while you dine at simple wood tables. The down-to-
earth menu features fresh oysters and shrimp served many ways,
including raw, fried, steamed or in a po-boy sandwich. Oysters
Rockefeller is about as fancy as it gets. Drink it all down with an ice-cold
beer.
A short boat ride from The Westin Key West Resort & Marina transports
you to Latitudes Beach Cafe, located on an island just off Mallory Square.
Tiki torches and a beachfront view of the Gulf of Mexico create a
romantic backdrop; the cuisine (and the mood) is Caribbean with Asian
and American accents. Menu highlights include lobster Thermidor,
seafood bouillabaisse and herb-crusted rack of lamb.
Pepe’s Cafe is the oldest restaurant in Key West and perhaps its best-
kept secret. Locals come here for the comfort food and relaxing
ambience. Meatloaf and mashed potatoes are a favorite, and every
Thursday is Thanksgiving. The brick walls hold photos of celebrities who
have dined here; a large bougainvillea tree provides shade on the patio.
All signs point to Pisces Seafood Restaurant for memorable seafood
served in an intimate setting with modern flair. Signed Andy Warhol prints
adorn the walls, but the true art lies in Chef Andrew Berman’s
contemporary American cuisine. His menu includes such imaginative
creations as Pisces Aphrodite (seafood wrapped in pastry), black grouper
bouillabaisse, raspberry roast duckling and his signature dish, lobster
tango mango. Toast the chef with a selection from the award-winning
wine list.
Attractions
In an area with dozens of attractions, you may have trouble deciding
where to spend your time. Here are the highlights for this destination, as
chosen by AAA editors. GEMs are “Great Experiences for Members.â€
There’s more to the Florida Keys than Key West. In fact, the Keys consist
of some 1,700 islands. The largest and most populous—Big Pine Key,
Islamorada, Key Largo, Key West, Marathon and Sugarloaf Key, along
with Dry Tortugas National Park—are the hot spots for fun, fishing,
sightseeing and water sports.
Immerse yourself in the Florida Keys lifestyle at John Pennekamp Coral
Reef State Park in Key Largo. Take to the waters via glass-bottom boats,
scuba diving or snorkeling to see the park’s main attraction: its living coral
reefs. Landlubbers will appreciate the park’s nature trails, beaches and a
30,000-gallon saltwater aquarium. At Theater of the Sea in Islamorada,
you can swim with dolphins and sea lions or catch them in the act in live
shows; parrots perform too. Observe marine creatures on a bottomless
boat ride through a 3-acre saltwater lagoon. And don’t forget to pet the
resident cats.
Interacting with dolphins also is encouraged at the Dolphin Research
Center in Marathon. Depending on your budget (and how wet you want to
get), you can watch narrated demonstrations, shake flippers and paint a
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Attractions Map
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T-shirt with an Atlantic bottlenose dolphin, or become a trainer or
researcher for a day. Wander the nature trails at the 8,700-acre National
Key Deer Refuge in Big Pine Key to peer at the diminutive Key deer, an
endangered species ranging in height from 25 to 30 inches. The best
time to see these dog-sized creatures is at dawn and dusk.
When you arrive in Key West, the Conch Tour Train, a AAA GEM
attraction, should be first on your list. Not only will the ride help you get
your bearings, you’ll also learn about Key West’s history, architecture and
famous residents, including an author, a painter and a president.
Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. was the home of one of Key
West’s most illustrious citizens. Highlights include Hemingway’s writing
studio, decorative tiles in the kitchen and Art Deco bathroom, the first
swimming pool in Key West and a cat cemetery. Guides regale visitors
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1. Big Pine Key
2. Islamorada
3. Key Largo
4. Marathon
5. Sugarloaf Key
6. Dry Tortugas National Park
7. John Pennekamp
Coral Reef State Park
US 1, Milepost 102.5
Key Largo, FL 33037
Phone: (305) 451-1202
8. Theater of the Sea
84721 Overseas Hwy
Islamorada, FL 33036
Phone: (305) 664-2431
9. Dolphin Research Center
58901 Overseas Hwy
(US 1) MM 59
Grassy Key, FL 33050
Phone: (305) 289-1121
10. National Key Deer Refuge
179 Key Deer Blvd
Big Pine Key, FL 33043
Phone: (305) 872-0774
with humorous tales about the author’s life. Twenty-eight original
engravings painted by artist and ornithologist John James Audubon, who
visited here in 1832, decorate the Audubon House and Tropical Gardens.
Owned by harbor pilot Capt. John Geiger, the American Classic Revival
home features 18th-century antiques and a 1-acre garden with rare
tropical plants.
Learn little-known facts about President Harry Truman at the Little White
House Museum. Truman stayed here 10 times during his term, enjoying
the beach, fishing and playing poker while discussing policies and
working at his living room desk.
Delve into other aspects of Key West’s diverse past at the Key West
Museum of Art & History at the Custom House; collections include folk
art, Ernest Hemingway mementoes (including his bloodstained World
War I uniform), Fantasy Fest costumes and “In Their Own Words: The
History of Key West 1822-1940.â€
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Attractions Map
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To see art created by Mother Nature, meander the path at the Key West
Butterfly & Nature Conservatory, where butterflies of amazing hues, tiny
gem-colored birds, soothing waterfalls, New Age music and tropical
plants and flowers create a miniature Eden. You may never want to
leave.
However, you can’t go to Key West without taking to the sea—even if it’s
just to get your feet wet. With the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Gulf
of Mexico on the other, there’s no shortage of ocean-going attractions,
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- Exclusive AAA member discounts available
11. Key West
12. Conch Tour Train
501 Front St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-5161
13. Ernest Hemingway
Home and Museum
907 Whitehead St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-1136
14. Audubon House
and Tropical Gardens
205 Whitehead St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-2116
15. Little White House
Museum
111 Front St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-9911
16. Key West Museum of
Art & History at the Custom House
281 Front St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 295-6616
17. Key West Butterfly & Nature
Conservatory
1316 Duval St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 296-2988
18. Discovery Undersea Tours
251 Margaret St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (800) 262-0099
19. Mel Fisher Maritime Museum
200 Greene St
Key West, FL 33040
Phone: (305) 294-2633
whether your preference is on top of the water or under it. Enjoy a gentle
sea breeze as you cruise the waters aboard a reproduction of a 19th-
century schooner or clipper ship with The Liberty Fleet of Tall Ships, you
can even hoist the sails and steer. Glass-bottomed boats let you explore
living coral reefs without donning a wet suit on Discovery Undersea
Tours. Marvel at the undersea world as guides eagerly point out sea
cucumbers, tropical saltwater fish and other creatures of the deep.
The waters of Key West also have been host to many shipwrecks. The
Mel Fisher Maritime Museum reveals some of their bounty, such as a
treasure trove of artifacts from the 1622 shipwreck of the Atocha which
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included gold jewelry, silver ingots, coins, gems and pottery. Shackles,
cannons and pewter pieces from a wrecked slave ship also are on
display.
If you can tear yourself away from Key West, take a ferry or seaplane to
Dry Tortugas National Park. You’ll have an entire day for bird-watching,
swimming, fishing, picnicking, exploring shipwrecks while snorkeling and
diving, or touring Fort Jefferson; you also may camp overnight.
Events
In addition to its many cultural and historic landmarks, this destination
hosts a number of outstanding festivals and events that may coincide
with your visit. No matter what time of year you visit the Florida Keys,
you’ll have no trouble finding a fun event to attend; here’s a sampling.
GEMs are “Great Experiences for Members.â€
At the Marathon Seafood Festival, held in March, feast upon the freshest
fish culled from Marathon’s unusually deep bays. Lobster, grouper,
conch, shrimp, snapper and stone crab await your appetite; boat and
plane shows, live music, arts and crafts and a nautical flea market flesh
out the festivities.
The Seven Mile Bridge begins in Marathon, and every
April 1,500 runners compete in the Seven Mile Bridge Run
to race from one end to the other. Cheer them on while
taking in the beauty of the vivid sapphire waters stretching
to the horizon.
Blow your own horn in a conch-shell-blowing contest during Key West’s
Conch Republic Independence Celebration commemorating 1982’s short-
lived liberation of the Keys. April’s weeklong event includes drag queens
sprinting in stilettos in a “drag race,†a bed race featuring wildly decorated
beds, and a pirate’s ball.
It will be hot, hot, hot at May’s Cuban American Heritage Festival in Key
West, and we’re not just talking about the weather. Shake your groove
thing as you join the Coast-to-Coast Conga Line; salsa dance lessons,
Latin music concerts and a cigar dinner add to the fun.
In July, dive or snorkel in the clear waters of Looe Key Reef in Big Pine
Key for the Underwater Music Festival. You’ll be reelin’ and rockin’ to
tunes played by undersea musicians surrounded by a beautiful coral reef
and its colorful denizens, including angelfish, parrotfish and yellowtail.
Head back to Key West for some more frivolity. The Hemingway Days
Festival in late July pays homage to the isle’s adopted son, Ernest
Hemingway. Activities include a look-alike contest, literary readings, a
marlin tournament, a Caribbean street fair and a short-story competition.
Key West earns its nickname of “Key Weird†during Fantasy Fest in late
October. Mingle with some 70,000 others if you dare at this adult-themed
saturnalia where Mardi Gras meets Halloween. Wacky costume contests,
parades and parties galore are some of the highlights.
Make merry during November’s Pirates in Paradise celebrating Key
West’s nautical history. Sail on a tall ship for a pirate attack on Fort
Zachary Taylor and explore the living history village and market. Treasure
hunts, strolling minstrels, a walk-the-plank contest and a pirate tavern
enhance the experience.
Unusual things drop at midnight during the New Year’s Eve Key West
Celebrations, including a conch shell, a drag queen in a giant high heel
shoe and a pirate wench from a tall ship. Fireworks blaze over Key West
Harbor, welcoming a new year of good times in the Keys.
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